PORT DICKSON, July 24 — Negeri Sembilan is well known for its salai (smoked) beef and duck, but another salai delicacy is steadily gaining recognition among visitors to the state.

Baung salai, a smoked freshwater fish delicacy, may be unfamiliar to some, but in the Linggi state constituency, it is a traditional favourite deeply rooted in the local community.

The dish features the fish in a rich golden-yellow masak lemak cili api gravy made with fresh coconut milk, bird’s eye chillies, fresh turmeric, lime juice, dried tamarind slices and fragrant laksa leaves.

Its distinctive smoky aroma and tender, delicate flesh create a flavour that reflects a time-honoured Linggi recipe preserved through generations.

The delicacy has become the signature attraction at Warung Dayang Salai D’Linggi, drawing customers from across the country, with some travelling hundreds of kilometres just to savour the freshwater fish.

“Every table must have gulai baung, our signature fish curry. Even if customers order smoked beef, smoked chicken or smoked catfish, the baung curry is always there. Only after eating baung can they head home,” said owner Rozianah Ahmad, 57.

Warung Dayang Salai D’Linggi owner Rozianah Ahmad, 57, prepares smoked ‘baung’ for her curry in Port Dickson. — Bernama pic
Warung Dayang Salai D’Linggi owner Rozianah Ahmad, 57, prepares smoked ‘baung’ for her curry in Port Dickson. — Bernama pic

Rozianah, who has more than 25 years of culinary experience, said the stall uses about 80 kilograms of baung daily, with demand increasing on weekends.

A Linggi native, she said baung was chosen as the restaurant’s signature dish because of its close ties to the area’s heritage, with generations relying on the rich resources of the Linggi River.

“Linggi is famous for baung, giant freshwater prawns, catfish and tinfoil barb. I wanted to elevate this baung curry using a traditional Linggi recipe passed down by our elders,” she said.

Rozianah said preparing the dish requires meticulous attention, from thoroughly cleaning the fish to smoking it at the right distance from the fire to ensure the flesh remains tender and moist.

“The flesh is tender and delicate. Baung tastes especially good when cooked as masak lemak cili api, but the technique must be right. Even if the fish is fresh, the taste will suffer if it is not cooked properly,” she said.

To ensure consistency, the curry is prepared in small batches throughout the day using fresh coconut milk.

Rozianah never expected the traditional recipe, once enjoyed mainly by the local community, to attract customers from far and wide after her baung curry began gaining attention on social media about four years ago.

“Before that, we were just a small business. Once the baung curry went viral, we realised there were many baung lovers out there,” she said.

Warung Dayang Salai D’Linggi owner Rozianah Ahmad, 57, serves a customer after preparing her signature smoked ‘baung’ dish in Port Dickson. — Bernama pic
Warung Dayang Salai D’Linggi owner Rozianah Ahmad, 57, serves a customer after preparing her signature smoked ‘baung’ dish in Port Dickson. — Bernama pic

She hopes the smoked baung curry will continue to raise Linggi’s profile while preserving the heritage recipe for future generations.

As campaigning continues across Negeri Sembilan ahead of the state election, Linggi’s smoked baung curry remains one of the state’s distinctive culinary attractions.

For the latest news on the 16th Negeri Sembilan State Election, visit https://prn.bernama.com/n9. — Bernama