SINGAPORE, Oct 22 — Nothing prepares you for how difficult it can be to find Maggie Joan’s after dark.
This bijou little restaurant isn’t just located in a back lane off Club Street, its front door actually opens out to a back lane off a back lane.
The only indication of its existence is an iron door that blends into the wall. Even the sign on the door bearing the restaurant’s name is equally camouflaged. It’s like one of those “secret bars” in Los Angeles or Melbourne. Only here, you don’t need a password to get in.
Its interior is just as enigmatic: Because it is so dark, it takes a couple of seconds for our eyes to adjust.
The bunker-like space is, well, let’s call it “eclectically appointed”. A small round table is crowned by a beautiful chandelier on one end of the room, while large steel lamps hover atop banquette seats on the other.
Train your gaze to the left and there is a charming Mediterranean-inspired parlour; on the right, the open kitchen buzzes with activity behind its industrial-chic wire fence.
It all makes for an alluring tableau. It is the kind of restaurant you read about in glossy travel magazines or hipster websites for which phrases such as “because bacon” count as complete sentences.
Named after owner Daniel Ballis’ two grandmothers, Maggie Joan’s menu is suitably homey and orchestrated by former Pollen chef Oliver Hyde.
(Ballis and his father Glen are co-owners and they are the men behind Moosehead Kitchen.)
Although patrons are encouraged to share the food, the portions do not always suit this ethos. It is near impossible to split a slow-poached egg (S$6 — RM18) that is rolled in dukka and deep-fried, and served with a dollop of saffron aioli on the side.
Similarly, a dish of scallop carpaccio (S$21), marinated in sherry, lemon juice and olive oil, and served with mint pea puree and crispy Iberico ham, is all too easily inhaled in one or two mouthfuls.
While we liked the sweet, earthy Jerusalem artichokes (S$8) that were slow-roasted to almost syrupy blisters, we would have loved it even more if the accompanying Manchego cream harboured that extra punch of, well, Manchego pungency.
The raw yellowtail (S$23) — which was tart and fresh, and brushed with an orange and lemon glaze and served with finely sliced shallots, brandade (salt cod) mousse, vegetable escabeche pickle and fried sour dough crumbs — needed an element of depth to counter its pervading acidity.
At dessert, an artfully arranged composition of white chocolate spiked with Indian pepper, smoked passion fruit, mango gel and chocolate cookie crumble (S$10) makes for a beautiful presentation.
Yet again, we found ourselves aching for something more robust and satisfying with which to end our meal.
Also, the gorgeous presentation went to waste since the restaurant’s sultry lighting doesn’t lend itself well to Instagram bragging.
We loved the dishes and the flavours here are subtle, but that means you’re often left wanting just a little bit more — to tip the experience from being something that’s merely pleasant to wholeheartedly delicious. — TODAY
Maggie Joan’s Dining & Bar
Where: 110 Amoy Street #01-01 (entrance at Gemmill Lane). Telephone: 6221 5564. Opening hours: Monday to Friday noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 11pm
