KUALA LUMPUR, May 13 — A man slurps his wantan mee with his chopsticks enjoying its slightly chewy texture.
Nearby, a grandfather dotes on his granddaughter, carrying her to the food stall to show her off.
A white-haired uncle settles down at his table with a pot of Chinese tea. He fills two cups with the brewed tea to cool as he opens his newspaper and marks each story he has read with a red pen.
That’s the scene that unfolded at this coffee shop inside Kuala Ampang when I visited; it was like watching a daily show in this part of the city.
It’s a place off my usual beat but a reader had recommended this wantan mee stall serving an almost forgotten, old-fashioned noodle taste.
Right in front of this corner coffee shop is the wantan mee stall run by two brothers carrying on their father’s 30-year legacy.
The first thing I noticed was each strand of the noodles being separated and their striking yellow colour.
It turns out these noodles are made with egg hence the yellow hue.
My plate of Char Siu Wantan Mee (RM9 for small) arrives at the table, with my choice of pun fei sau (half fat, half meat) cut.
The char siu is rather fatty but it’s tender and the layers of decadent fat are cooked through, melting in the mouth.
The noodles had the perfect texture — not overly thin, springy with a toothsome bite — and were dressed with their homemade sauce mixture and lard.
The dark brown sauce is said to combine soy sauce, dark soy sauce and oyster sauce, giving the noodles a more savoury flavour.
Most stalls omit oyster sauce; hence, that deeper taste isn’t something we’re familiar with.
For my second visit, I ordered the Mixed Char Siu and Roast Pork Wantan Mee (RM11), going for the leaner cut for the char siu.
While the lean cut was healthy, I craved a bit of fat for a richer texture.
Roast pork was also on the healthier side, featuring less fat but a crispy top.
There’s also minced pork for those craving that old-fashioned topping.
Even the wantans are very good here with roughly chopped meat wrapped in silky skin.
There are various stalls scattered around the coffeeshop too and I decided to order a bowl of pork noodles minus the innards.
It’s well cooked with fluffy mince and a cleaner-tasting broth that is sure to please the older patrons who visit the place.
Located just next to the market, this coffeeshop offers a refuge from the big city buzz of the busy MRR2 highway outside, creating a small-town vibe.
Restoran Sing Seong Teck Mui
Open: 8am to 2pm. Closed on Monday.
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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