PETALING JAYA, Oct 27 ― In need of a short break and desiring to explore more of  South-east Asia, we set off for Luang Prabang, Laos,  earlier this month. 

I had read a New York Times article about the vast array of heritage architecture in this Unesco World Heritage city and the images beckoned for a personal encounter.   

The main challenge for a visit is accessibility, requiring a stopover in Bangkok or elsewhere as there are no direct flights from Kuala Lumpur. However, AirAsia’s direct flight to Luang Prabang,  starting this December, offers relief.  

A woman placing offerings at Wat That Chomsi which was built in 1804.

Relying on the good sense of the management team at our hotel, the award-winning Belmond Residence, we asked Manager Sai for an "efficient tour” that introduced us to the best of  Luang Prabang,  with tastes of scenery, cuisine, temples and architecture.   

We set off from KL with little expectation of what Luang Prabang would offer but much anticipation for a good unwind.    

Laos is called the Land of a Million Elephants (though on our trip we saw not one) but this phrase’s regal connotation  is certainly well placed in the case of  Luang Prabang.   

Enjoy the view as you dine at the Viewpoint Café.

The ancient town was designated a Uniesco World Heritage Site in 1995 and is considered to be  the heart of Laotian culture. A wonderfully green garden, encircled by mountains, it stands 700 metres above sea level  at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers. 

We lunched later at Viewpoint Café, a simple and fresh venue with captivating views of this point of confluence, relaxing while sipping Laotian beer. (Try the river weed and steamed river fish.) 

You could while away the afternoon by the pool at the Belmond Residence.

The Belmond Residence in many ways exemplifies the Luang Prabang narrative, starting life as a royal holiday retreat, and then, preserved through careful heritage maintenance, for elegant  enjoyment by contemporary travellers. 

A lap pool and yoga mats are necessities ― and the hotel had both ― in addition to wonderful fresh juice combinations for breakfast and excellent organic Laotian coffee.

Construction of this small, exclusive residence on the "hill of kites” on the edge of Luang Prabang began at the turn of the 20th century. The site was where young Lao princes came to fly their kites in the pre-revolution years.

Stupas inside the compound of Wat Long Khoun.

Building work continued through the last five years of the Laotian Civil War. The architecture is a blend of French and Lao styles and the beautiful hardwood floors reflect solid foundations of those traditional builds.

Outside the hotel enclave, cascading waterfalls, scaling peaks and the milky-brown waters of the Mekong River provide ample opportunity to swim, climb and sail through Luang Prabang.

The Hmong night market is worth a visit.

It was only as recent as 1989 that Laos opened up to tourism. This country, that had previously been cut off from the rest of South-east Asia, developed a small but steady economy based on tourism and regional trade.

The average annual wage in Laos  is US$793.77 (RM3,288.63) and most workers are unskilled. The main industries are mining, timber and hydropower. Interestingly, in  Luang Prabang, tourism offers opportunities and social mobility. 

So in Luang Prabang, life is a bit different. The team at Belmond shared that there are no hotel schools or training institutions for hotel management.

Main street in Luang Prabang... it has all the charms of a small town.

Rather, English language skills are the prerequisite for job opportunities in this market, which, when coupled with hard work, training and personality, result in the warm and friendly hosting that we experienced. 

Small town charm with high-end subtleties. The people are gentle, helpful, eager to please ― and somewhat business saavy.  

It thus comes as no surprise that Luang Prabang, the small and gentle town where most locals are asleep by 10pm,  is now one of the richest and most visited in Laos.   

In October, however, the crowds were thankfully minimal, and we worked our way through all sites without lines or delay. The Dara Market was charming, and the line of textile shops with handwoven, natural dyed creations mark positive community development and social enterprise.   

It may not look like much but the river weed at Viewpoint Café is a must-try.

Massages are readily available and we enjoyed a much-needed reflexology session ― in a heritage building, no less ― that renewed energy to keep going. 

This former royal capital also remains the main centre for Buddhist learning in Laos and is the perfect location for spiritual contemplation.  Climb the 300 steps up Mount Phousi to the golden spired Wat Chomsi and meditate on the 360-degree view of the city and mountains beyond. The other two main temples to visit are Wat Xiengthong and Wat Mai.

Luang Prabang offered an experience that was genuine and calming, making it a destination that we will definitely return to, next time, perhaps, with time to find some of the million elephants.