NEW YORK, Sept 20 ― Forget low-rise jeans, cargo pants and other relics of the 2000s, as fashion turns its attention to another decade ― the 1960s ― with the return of the babydoll dress. Revived at New York Fashion Week, this icon of the womenswear wardrobe is already being seen everywhere, from red carpets to social networks, revealing its full fashion potential.

From Brigitte Bardot to Jane Birkin to Marilyn Monroe, the babydoll dress gained pride of place in closets by flattering the silhouettes of the greatest fashion icons of the 1960s, to the point of becoming a staple of women's wardrobes. Although it never really disappeared from the fashion scene, the babydoll dress suffered greatly from the Covid-19 pandemic, which ushered in a more casual style, and then from the younger generation's infatuation with the 2000s, but, still, the style has not said its last word.

Synonymous with a lighthearted and carefree spirit, this 1960s staple was first resurrected on social networks with the "dollcore” aesthetic last spring, before making a few forays onto the red carpet, and then triumphing on the catwalks of New York Fashion Week, led by top luxury brands. It's a trend that hasn't gone unnoticed, and one that could become a permanent fixture in women's wardrobes... at least until September 2024.

Born at the end of the 1950s

Elia Kazan's "Baby Doll” movie, in which Carroll Baker wears a slightly flared, lingerie-like mini-dress, marked the debut of the babydoll dress in 1956. But it was two years later, under the impetus of the visionary designer Cristobal Balenciaga, that this must-have piece really took hold in fashion, becoming a '60s icon. Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin, Marilyn Monroe and Françoise Hardy all flaunted the dress in every imaginable print and hue, symbolising a decade of freedom and carefree attitudes. Short, full and light, the babydoll dress is subtly flared, with a trapezium-shaped cut, and, at the time, was generally adorned with psychedelic motifs, and worn with long, high-heeled boots.

Six decades later, the babydoll dress is making a comeback, aided and abetted by social media users. Last spring's 'dollcore' trend, for example, was a veritable ode to this essential style, revisited for the occasion with a kitschy, girly twist. The trend then made its way onto red carpets ― with Lily-Rose Depp at Cannes, Anya Taylor-Joy at the 2023 BAFTAs and Jenna Ortega's dark version at the Met Gala ― reinforcing the craze for this must-have. On social networks, the hashtag #babydolldress is also a hit, with over 40 million views.

A modern, minimalist reinterpretation

But it was the top fashion houses that confirmed the return of the babydoll dress at New York Fashion Week. Here, the '60s staple lost none of its defining characteristics, notably its signature shape, but it was revived with a new, modern and minimalist twist. Gone are the psychedelic prints, replaced by plain dresses, mostly in subtle shades ― as at Tory Burch, Aknvas and Michael Kors ― and in a variety of materials, such as lace, tulle, knits and satin. And with so many propositions, there's something for everyone.

Carolina Herrera is undoubtedly the fashion house that has remained most faithful to the original model, in terms of cut, colour and pattern. Here, the babydoll dress takes on a bright vibrant yellow tone, or comes covered in flowers or polka dots, for a fully '60s-inspired look. No matter how it's worn, the babydoll dress is ready to make a comeback in women's closets, signalling the return of a wardrobe channelling femininity and lightness. ― ETX Studio