PETALING JAYA, Dec 24 ―  Christmas is one of the most anticipated festivities of the year for Melaka’s Portuguese community in the settlement amid the Covid-19 pandemic.

And the pandemic is not standing in their way of celebrating the occasion with their long standing traditions such as decorating the houses and preparing scrumptious traditional Portuguese dishes.

For many, the celebration starts as early as November where they would paint and decorate their homes in anticipation of the birth of Jesus Christ, and begin preparing their Christmas recipes.

Others start their decorating and planning for the end-of-year celebration from early December.

Malay Mail spoke to two Portuguese cultural activists in the midst of preparing for their Christmas celebrations and their hopes for this year’s festivities.

Christmas eve with family members

Philomena Agnes Singho, 67, who has been staying in the settlement since 1957 told Malay Mail that the celebration usually starts as early as November when the community would begin to paint and decorate their houses.

"Painting the house is significant to celebrate the birth of Jesus especially for the Portuguese Catholic community.

"Cooking is also an important trait that Portuguese women have learnt from their own mothers, a passed down tradition where the womenfolk take pride in their traditional cuisines.”

For Christmas eve, the occasion takes on a more deeper meaning with their close family members and the women folk whipping up home-cooked Western meals.

"This year, we will be attending night mass in St Peter’s church followed by dinner in the comfort of my home.

"My sons who have been cooking Western dishes will continue making their signature dishes such as roast turkey, lasagna, chicken chop and Shepherd's Pie.”

Spending time with the family for Singho during Christmas eve is essential for her family and herself as many would travel home from all over just to be back home in the settlement.

Singho and her family members on Christmas eve for one of the previous celebrations. ― Picture courtesy of Philomena Agnes Singho

"While many family members from Singapore are unable to return to Melaka to join in the festivities this year, I am glad to be celebrating with my sons.”

When the clock strikes midnight, the younger children would gather outside their homes lighting up firecrackers to light up the skies.

"Everyone will be out of their homes - irrespective of the young or old just to see the fireworks colouring the skies.

"While everyone will exchange Christmas wishes, a custom known as toma bensen in Kristang language is observed where the younger children would kiss the hands of the elder family members as a sign of respect.”

Traditional Portuguese dishes served on Christmas Day

Christmas is never complete without home-cooked Portuguese food made from scratch by families in the settlement that have been learnt, mastered and handed down over many generations.

Food is always the centre of attention among guests in any Portuguese home.

Sara Frederica Santa Maria, one the pioneers in the settlement, will be heading over to her son’s girlfriend’s house in Kota Laksamana in Melaka for Christmas.

Along with her is a sugee cake that she will be bringing, a delicacy she has mastered baking over the years from her mother.

"I have also been making sesagon this year, which is a cake made of coconut rice flour and sugar that is usually eaten in the first few weeks of December and is a custom for my family and I nearing Christmas.

"Breudher, a Dutch bread that has cake-like texture will also be served this year for Christmas morning ― another of my favourite dishes.”

Santa Maria's homemade Breudher and sesagon will also be served. ― Picture courtesy of Sara Frederica Santa Maria

Unlike previous Christmas celebrations, Santa Maria will not be hosting any international students from the American Field Service (AFS) programme due to the pandemic.

"Usually five students from Italy, the United States and a few other countries would come over to stay with me from December 23 till 28 to witness the Christmas spirit in the settlement.

"They would also help me out in cooking the traditional Portuguese Debal curry on the eve and would mingle with my family members and friends.”

For Singho, her Christmas morning usually starts with her cooking her usual culinary delights  such as Debal curry, sambal sotong, mutton curry seku dish.

She too has mastered recipes from her mother and has been cooking for the past 40 years.

Her most popular food among her guests include her seybak which is originally a salad composed of slow-cooked pork but Philomena would replace the pork with fish balls, taufu pok, cucumbers and serve with homemade chili sauce instead.

"Because I usually have Muslim friends over, I don’t cook any pork dishes to accomodate to my guests.

"They always look forward to coming to my place on Christmas to indulge in Kristang meals as it's hardly available during any time of the year.

"Fellowship over Kristang meals would usually extend to three or four in the morning as guests would come in batches ― but this year, it will not be the same.”

She added that the celebration might be a small one this year with only friends staying in Melaka visiting them for a limited time only.

Hopes and plans for this year’s celebration

Santa Maria who stresses on the importance of spending time with her family this year for the celebration hopes that her two sons based in Klang and Subang Jaya are able to come home this year.

"It’s not the same as celebrating without my two sons and I hope they are able to come home to Melaka to be with the family.

"The celebration with them (two sons) completes it for me because I cherish the time with my close family members every year for the season.”

Singho, on the other hand said that this year’s celebration will be slightly different without the usual exuberant Christmas vibes without her friends crowding her place from lunchtime to the early hours of the morning.

"Some of my siblings are also unable to head home to the settlement due to the Covid-19 situation and don’t want to take the risks to drive down to Melaka.

"Which is why the celebrations at my place will slightly be duller than usual. But, I’ll have to make the best out of it,” she said.