KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 3 ― During my recent illness, I derived solace and peace of mind through chanting mantras and focusing my mind to visualise the various temples I had visited over the years.

I made a vow in hospital that once discharged, I would perform a mini yatra (pilgrimage) by visiting temples that are at least 100 years old in Malaysia and recite the Gayathri Mantra prayers 108 times. 

It is said that by praying in old temples, one is able to recharge one’s spirituality and that the construction of these temples closely followed the Vastu Shastra compared to modern ones.

For all these reasons, I visited seven such temples in the peninsula over seven weeks.

Maha Muthumariamman temple in Muar on August 11

I have fond memories of praying in this temple with my parents.

This temple, believed to more than 100 years old despite the official grant that is dated 1935, is mainly used by the non-Chettiar members of the Hindu community as the Chettiars have their own temple.

The presiding deity is Muthumariamma.

I spoke with V Subramaniam, a retired Tamil school teacher in his 80s, who has substantial knowledge of the temple.

He said a small hut served as a temple before 1935; there was no murti (statue of God) and devotees focused on the light from a fire from a burning piece of camphor as they prayed.

The murti was installed in 1940 and the temple has since undergone renovation many times over the years.

It is now a splendid piece of Dravidian architecture with beautiful carved wooden doors brought from India and a temple tower (gopuram).

The murti has been taken on a procession around the town after a 13-day Kovil Thiruvila.

A wooden chariot that was pulled by two carts, was brought from India in 1940 to facilitate this procession.

During its journey, the chariot would stop at Hindu homes and shops where devotees would be waiting with offering of fruits, sweets and flowers.

This included several Chinese shopkeepers in Muar.

A new teak chariot has been commissioned and will be used for ceremonies this year.

Whenever I return to Muar, I make it a point to go to this temple with my wife.

It was one of the first temples I went to after my recovery as I had visualised praying to Muthumariamman Amma from my hospital bed many times and gained peace of mind by doing so.

Subramaniar temple in Muar on August 11

The Subramaniar temple in Muar is known as the Chettiar temple.

Records of the temple go back to 1922. It was built by the Nattukottai Chettiars who hailed from the Karaikudi municipality in Tamil Nadu.

This said community came to Muar to conduct their money-lending business.

Being owners of the temple, they are always served first before other devotees but has become a point of contention among the worshippers.

There was an interesting phenomenon that was noted during the temple’s  regular 12-year consecration ceremonies a few years ago.

A photograph was taken of the gopuram as ceremonies were being conducted that involved pouring blessed water on it.

Once the photo was developed, it showed a source of bright light coming from one side of the gopuram.

Upon closer look, a vel (spear) was seen in the light. The vel is Lord Murugan’s weapon, given to him by his mother to fight evil.

This is a great significance to temple-goers as the presiding deity of this temple is Lord Murugan.

I was also able to look at this photo when I visited.

The preserved tree trunk at the Marathandavar temple.

Marathandavar temple in Maran on August 18

I was first introduced to this temple by my wife, who hails from Kuala Lipis. Anjalai has been coming here with her family since she was a young girl.

The family’s annual pilgrimage is a good example of the country’s multiculturalism.

As Anjalai’s family was very poor and could not afford transport, a Chinese businessman and neighbour took it upon himself to drive the family annually to the temple for prayers.

The temple’s origins are also interesting.

At the site of temple, there was a jungle where Rudraksha trees grew.

The Rudraksha seed is considered holy by Hindus as it is said to resemble the eye of Lord Shiva.

The story goes that the jungle was being cleared to build a road when a particular Rudraksha tree being cut down started to ooze fluids that looked like blood.

The Hindu workers immediately stopped work as one of them went into a trance and declared that the tree should not be cut down.

However, an English supervisor ordered them to get on with their work when a little boy appeared, laughed and ran into the tree.

After seeing this, the Englishman ordered that work be stopped.

The tree died many years ago but its trunk is preserved for devotees to see in a shed protected from the elements.

If you are visiting the temple during the rainy season, take note that the river beside it is prone to overflowing.

It is a great feeling when you reach the temple; you drive along a narrow road flanked by the forest and rubber trees and you get to this big open space where the temple stands.

Delicious vegetarian food is often cooked on temple premises that is served after prayers. Payment is by donation.

These days, many lorry drivers stop at the temple entrance to seek blessings for safe travels before continuing on their journey.

Multiculturalism in full play in Melaka.

Sanniasimalai Andavar temple in Melaka on September 12

The wedding of my cousin’s son provided an opportunity to visit this temple.

It recently underwent renovation, which refined its architectural looks similar to the traditional Dravidian style.

The temple was established about 120 years ago by a Hindu saint from South India who settled in Melaka.

He was well versed in traditional Indian herbal medication and successfully treated many locals.

Before his passing, the saint handed over responsibilities of conducting the Shiva Lingga prayers to a Nattukotai Chettiar man who was also his patient.

This person then donated land to build the temple, consecrated to Lord Murugan (Lord Shiva’s son) in the same vicinity.

This temple is particularly popular during Masi Magam festival when devotees from all over Malaysia and the region come to offer prayers.

Devotees participate in a procession and breaking of coconuts, which signifies the release of one’s ego, and carrying milk kavadi.

Kallumalai Murugan temple in Ipoh on September 17

We stopped by the Kallumalai Murugan Temple in Ipoh on our way to Penang.

The temple is surrounded by limestone cliffs and there is ample parking.

The presiding deity is Lord Murugan and the temple’s walls are adorned with statues depicting religious stories from Hindu scriptures.

At the back of the temple is a caged area for peacocks, which in Hindu mythology were Lord Murugan’s vehicle for his travels.

A small flower shop sells garlands to those who wanted to make offerings but the variety available was poor.

I would suggest that one source garlands from elsewhere before going to the temple.

The temple was not crowded during our visit and we got to say our prayers in peace.

We were joined by an old friend Dr Letchumanan, the chief physician to the government, who treated us to a sumptuous vegetarian meal before we left for Penang.

The writer and his wife in Penang.

Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani temple in Penang on September 18

I have, for many years, wanted to visit this temple, better known as the waterfall temple, but work commitments were in the way.

We booked ourselves into a nearby hotel and the foyer provided a great view of the temple.

The next morning, my wife Anjalai and I climbed the 513 steps to the temple.

The steps were broad and the gradient was gentle, so the climb was not exhausting although we stopped several times to rest.

We were also blessed with good weather.

The surrounding trees and shrubs provided shade and we took in the beauty of nature.

Along the way, we had a stunning view of the George Town skyline.

The climb took us 30 minutes and our efforts were rewarded when the beautiful temple came into view.

The temple was initially located near the waterfall in the Penang Botanic Gardens.

Records indicated that the temple was already in existence in 1800s. Local lore stated that the temple site was chosen by a holy man, who dedicated it to Lord Murugan.

The temple is busiest on Thaipusam, which is Lord Murugan’s birthday, when about 100,000 devotees from around the region come to pray and seek blessings.

In 1914, the temple was relocated to its present site and in 1985, the temple was rebuilt and the mahakumbhashegam prayers conducted. It is said to be the largest Murugan temple outside India.

There were very few devotees when we arrived in the morning after having first said our prayers at the Arulmigu Sree Ganeshar temple at the foot of the hill.

I said my prayers and after, the priest tied the prayer string around my right wrist.

It was a satisfying visit as I could beseech Lord Murugan’s blessings for an ailing father, a friend suffering from stage four colon cancer, and a favourite nephew, who was due to undergo a biopsy procedure.

* Kannan is a cardiologist, who is doing well after his recovery, and back to work full-time.

The temple in Penang is said to be the largest Murugan temple outside of India.