BANGKOK, Oct 21 — Beyond Thai Chinese temples and rows of hardware stores, the ever-changing face of Yaowarat — Bangkok’s famous Chinatown — means that there’s always something new here. Amid the busy food stalls and shops perfumed by incense smoke, there is an uprising of new businesses driven by the gentrifying force of café culture.

We begin with Soi Phatsai where the legendary Eiah Sae, a traditional Thai coffeeshop that draws elderly regulars to catch up on the morning gossip, is also located. Opposite the street from Eiah Sae is Baan2459, a yellow-walled colonial-style house turned boutique hotel. Walking in, we discover a glasshouse extension to its right wing, almost hidden by a cover of green fronds.

A barista at Chata making pour-over coffee (left). Sip your coffee slowly and enjoy Chata’s bucolic ambience (right).

This is Chata, our first Yaowarat café stop, carefully masked from the rest of Chinatown (something which proves to be a trend with many of these upstart additions to the old neighbourhood). Headed by Nopphadon Jantranapaporn (the redoubtable latte art instructor at Bang Khen’s School Café), Chata delivers specialty coffee in a near bucolic environment.

Imagine relaxing while your barista prepares your pour-over coffee brewed from beans from around the world — while sitting inside a greenhouse. The profusion of sunlight bathes everything in a natural, healthy glow. Everything does taste better this way, especially the fresh coconut meringue tart that’s on the menu if one arrives early enough. (We did.)

Come early to enjoy the fresh coconut meringue tart at Chata.

The long communal table, carved from a single tree trunk, takes centrestage. Its centre is framed by a line of candles and hardened drippings, creating a fairyland ambience. The latte art rosetta in our flat white mirrors the pine cones and tiny Christmas trees (perhaps a bit of out of season, but then again, is it ever too early for Christmas?) scattered across the snowy slopes of wax.

Jing Jing, a café cum ice cream parlour, is located near Yaowarat’s temple district (left). Once inside, Jing Jing’s décor is near monochromatic (right).

A brisk 10-minute walk away, deeper into the heart of Yaowarat, is an entirely different sort of Chinatown café. Nestled inside a side alley not far from Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (the go-to temple to pray for good fortune), Jing Jing is more of an ice cream parlour than a straightforward café. Its name means "really” or "authentic” in both Teochew and Thai, which gives an idea of its passionate focus on frozen treats.

Resident ice cream maestro Chutinat Thasananuphan churns up a kaleidoscope of flavours including salted caramel and almond, milky jasmine, Kahlua peanut butter, lime and butterfly pea, as well as limited flavours such as bergamot vodka and an intriguing garlic butter, lime and spring onion (which sounds like a beautiful marinade for a roast chicken!).

Handcrafted ice cream at Jing Jing.

A nostagia-evoking affogato with ABC (ais batu campur) style toppings (left). A stray cat stands guard at the entrance of Aoon (right).

As if to offset the inevitable riot of colours from the scoops of ice cream and sorbet, the interior is near monochromatic: clean lines of beige brick and chic black offering the perfect background. Coffee is also more sophisticated; try the espressos laced with tonic or pistachio liqueur. An affogato topped with ingredients right out of our favourite ABC (ais batu campur) evokes the best kind of childhood nostlagia.

Third time is... just as charming. Aoon wears two different yet complementary faces. Upstairs is a studio cum showcase of artisanal pottery by owner and ceramic maker Pollasate Lohachalatanakul. Unlike the kitschy souvenirs sold elsewhere in Chinatown, this is true handicraft.

Grandma’s recipe: rice with pork satay, a fried egg and peanut dip.

Downstairs, past a couple of stray cats standing guard at the entrance, is a cosy café where Lohachalatanakul and his brother Taned serve coffee in rustic-looking cups made with clays from various regions of Thailand where the beans are farmed. Besides coffee, teas from Chiang Rai are also served including a delicate butterfly pea infusion.

Feels like home: the warm atmosphere inside Aoon (left). Coffee and tea are served in rustic-looking, handmade cups at Aoon (right).

We feel at home here and it’s by design; the name of the shop, aoon, means "warm” in Thai. And just like home, having a meal here feels as though one’s grandmother prepared it with love. Indeed, one of the signature dishes — a hearty bowl of brown rice laden with pork satay and a fried egg — is one of the brothers’ grandmother’s recipes. Slather it with the peanut dip and it’s instant comfort food.

As.is is located at the edge of Chinatown, away from the touristy crowds.

Our final stop is a bit further away from the main action of the Charoenkrung bustle. Located at the edge of Chinatown, As.is borrows from the old trading businesses in the neighbourhood by featuring exposed brick walls and industrial black metal in its décor. There’s something to be said for blending in.

Instead of stacks of cut metal piled up high or shelves of fragrant joss sticks, As.is offers coffee brewed with beans from Chiang Mai. There is a renaissance in using Thai-grown coffee, especially those farmed further up north, in the highlands where the microclimate can induce interesting flavour profiles.

Tuck into some Guinness stout chocolate cake or sweet date tart at As.is (left). Iced cappuccino made with Thai coffee beans (right).

Brewing a Chinatown cuppa.

Owner and Hiphipe hat designer Teerajit Luanpitpong may infuse the space with his sense of street fashion, but his time with Brave Roasters means that the local beans are well-served here too. From straightforward filter brews and iced cappuccinos to more eclectic options such as a fruit-flavoured affogato and strawberry cream cheese shakes, we are never going to get bored here.

Tucking into a slice of Guinness stout chocolate cake crowned with cream cheese, a delicate tart filled with puréed dates or fluffy buttermilk pancakes: no sweet tooth is neglected either. Only in Yaowarat, where we can have our fill of Thai Chinese temples to marvel at and our fix of coffee and cakes too!

Chata 98 Soi Phatsai, Bangkok, Thailand Open daily (except Mon closed) 8am-5pm www.facebook.com/chataspecialtycoffee

Jing Jing 154 Soi Charoenkrung 14, Bangkok, Thailand Open Wed-Sat 8:30am-7:30pm; Sun-Mon 9:30am-5pm www.facebook.com/JingJingIcecreamBarandCafe/

Aoon 2/8 Soi Phathum Khongka, Song Sawat Rd, Bangkok, Thailand Open Sat-Wed 11am-7pm; Thu-Fri closed www.facebook.com/aoonpottery/

As.is. 45 Rama IV Rd, Bangkok, Thailand Open Tue, Wed, Thu 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-8pm; Mon & Thu closed www.facebook.com/As.is.CoffeeStand