SINGAPORE, Oct 30 — Ask the average Singaporean on the street to name any Asian fashion designer, and chances are you’ll draw a blank. Those more clued-in might name a world-renowned designer who is Asian by heritage but is based out of Asia and creates with a distinctly European or American sensibility, such as Alexander Wang, Jason Wu or Prabal Gurung.
The odd thing is that fashion retail is so ingrained in the culture here, and Singapore’s further education institutions such as LASALLE College Of The Arts, Nanyang Academy Of Fine Arts and Raffles Design Institute often see hundreds of graduates, both local and international, emerging from the hallowed halls of their Fashion Design faculties every year.
The offerings by Singapore headdress label Heads Of State Millinery are striking. — TODAY pic
So why are Asian fashion labels and Asian designers so little-known here?
This is a complex question with a multi-pronged answer, but the result of this is a retail scene that leans heavily towards European and American labels in both the mass and luxury sectors. High rental costs in the Orchard Road shopping belt also mean that there are few retail spaces that showcase unknown or under-the-radar Asian labels.
However, this imbalance is what fashion industry veteran, designer and entrepreneur David Wang is hoping to address with the newly launched multi-label store Mporium.
The sprawling 5,000 sq ft boutique was officially unveiled as part of the last phase of Suntec City’s massive renovations after a two-week soft-launch period. Wang, who is Mporium’s creative consultant, said the inspiration for Mporium stemmed from the monotony and same-ness of the fashion offerings at retail malls here.
“I felt that the retail scene is too much of what I term the ‘same old, same mould syndrome’,” he said. “We have wonderful mall facades but once one is inside, it’s like deja vu. Hence, we cannot fault shoppers for being bored of the lack of retail options and not buying.”
Mae Pang’s creations draw from her natural surroundings and cleverly combine form and function. — TODAY pic
Wang had originally pitched the idea of a multi-label Singapore and Asian collectives store that also showcased artworks, lifestyle and accessories brands to the Suntec City team, and they, in turn, introduced him to Mporium chief executive Jennifer Yii, who co-curates the boutique’s offerings with Wang.
The 35 emerging Asian fashion labels that he has curated for Mporium’s launch were selected for their high levels of quality, design aesthetics, value and synergy with the other brands in the store. Wang added that there were quite a number that hadn’t made the cut, although promising designers were advised to seek him out when they have succeeded in fine-tuning their creations, making him a kind of mentor figure to a new generation of Asian designers as well.
Wang also currently holds the position of chairman representing Singapore at the Asian Fashion Federation, where he has the opportunity to encounter numerous new and exciting young Asian designers from all over the region. “I felt these designers deserved to be given a platform to showcase their designs. So what better idea than a showcase-cum-retail platform,” he said.
Aside from showcasing selected brands that are exclusive to the store, there is also a VIP room for personal styling consultations by appointment, as well as plans for monthly events such as styling workshops and presentations by the designers themselves. The line-up of designers and variety of products offered in-store are also expected to expand in the months to come.
Joyce Loo of Joyclay offers ceramic creations that can accentuate any living space. — TODAY pic
But, in light of the headwinds and challenges currently facing the local economy and retail scene, whether this ambitious concept store will swing local shoppers away from international names and towards indie Asian labels remains to be seen.
“There really is no fixed formula for retail success and especially with a volatile economy like we have now, anything can happen,” said Tan Chee Boon, editor of leading local fashion publications Style: and Style:Men. “What we do need to applaud is the fact that these Asian designers are being given a platform to reach out to new audiences with the launch of Mporium.
“Any form of support for them is always welcome.”
Our top picks of Asian labels found at Mporium
Aijek: Founded by Daniela Woo in 2010, this Singaporean label offers mostly lace pieces in soft pastel and jewel colours that are reportedly flying off the racks.
Yodyoko: An Mporium exclusive, this Thai fashion label was founded by a Thai artist who hand-paints each piece. “His art is vivid and in bold strokes, and prices are sharp, starting from S$79,” said Wang.
Every piece in Thai label Yodyoko’s collection is hand-painted, making each one a decidedly unique proposition. — TODAY pic
Mae Pang: Designer Mae Pang is also popular with the local fashion media, not least because her creations draw from natural surroundings, and cleverly combine form and function. “(She is) a local designer whom I mentored and incubated in (the now-defunct) Parco Next Next Fashion Design Incubator programme and has now grown over the years,” said Wang.
Heads of State Millinery: This is a homegrown headdress label by designer Chee Sau Fen. The items offered are striking thanks to a clever use of colour and design. It has already garnered local and international interest and has started exporting its creations overseas.
Joyce Loo from Joyclay: Local brand Joyclay purviews artisanal ceramics for the home that aren’t quite your usual decorative pieces. “A ceramic artist that hand-moulds one-of-a-kind items for the home. These are organic in shapes, almost sensuous,” enthused Wang.
A Dose of Something Good: This Singapore-based brand specialises in artisanal candles created with high-quality fine fragrances, pure essential oils and natural extracts, hand-poured into hand-cast porcelain containers. — TODAY
Singapore-based A Dose of Something Good specialises in artisanal candles hand-poured into hand-cast porcelain containers. — TODAY pic
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