HONG KONG, Dec 3 – Pods of blanched edamame, their green shells piling up like unpaid interest. Coarsely rolled maki, the tightly packed rice grains squeezing the innards of avocado and raw fish into a slurry. Another bottle of cold beer from Sapporo, and then another.


There’s nothing quite like a night out at an izakaya. Not quite an Irish pub nor a Bavarian kneipe, the Japanese izakaya is an experience we used to only get at Omoide Yokocho near Shinjuku Station’s West Exit or the Ameyoko market street at Ueno.

Who knew Hong Kong would have some serious izakaya action too?

French oysters garnished with citrusy yuzu and kumquat jelly (left). Sashmi platter: shima aji (striped jack), kanpachi (amberjack), akagai (ark shell clams), gindara (black cod) and itoyori (threadfin bream) (right)

Opened in 2013 by Canadians Matthew Abergel and and Lindsay Jang, Rōnin is a contemporary izakaya that focuses on fresh and seasonal seafood.

The duo behind popular yakitori hangout Yardbird has also ensured that Rōnin’s patrons will never go thirsty: their formidable drinks list features a collection of over 100 Japanese whiskies alongside the expected craft beers, wines and Japanese liqueurs such as umeshu and shochu.

The name itself harks back to the Japanese feudal era – a Rōnin is a master-less samurai destined to wander the lands as a hired sword. No swords here but sushi knives; no master-less samurais but instead a masterclass on how to run a fine-dining style izakaya like a hidden speakeasy for the hipster crowd.

The hidden part isn’t an exaggeration. Located in Sheung Wan, the restaurant is nestled within the quieter end of Kau U Fong. It takes a Holmes or Poirot to hunt the entrance down unless you’ve a sharp eye and spot the discreet wooden handle attached to a dark anthracite steel door. Or if you’re a regular, of course.

We are seated at the bar, a handsome showcase of artisanal carpentry made from kiln-dried Japanese keyaki wood. The shelves of fine Japanese whiskies behind our bartender, Harley Ling, bask in a reverent glow. He introduces every dish that leaves the kitchen headed by Abergel and sous chef Lam Siu Fung: this is an intimate meal, a conversation.

Uni (sea urchin) on a bed of flower crab meat, with wild mitsuba parsley (left). Unagi chirashi, a rice bowl topped with grilled freshwater eel (right)

Creamy anago (saltwater eel) tempura (left). Quail karaage with orange zest and sancho pepper (right)

Rōnin’s menu changes daily depending on what the chefs unearth in the market, both locally and abroad. Ling welcomes us with a bite of pure umami: wakame, enoki and dashi; seaweed and mushrooms lightly seasoned by the quintessential Japanese broth. This is followed by French oysters on a mound of ice, to be savoured raw but for a faint garnish of citrusy yuzu and kumquat jelly.

Then a platter of sashmi: shima aji (striped jack), kanpachi (amberjack), akagai (ark shell clams), gindara (black cod) and itoyori (threadfin bream). The shima aji benefits from a quick dip of soy sauce and a smidgen of wasabi; the rest are already perfectly seasoned. Sweet, briny ambrosia.

Wind down your meal with some coffee shochu (left). Bartender Harley Ling mixing a cocktail (right)

There is nothing fussy: the seafood and produce are allowed to shine without being burdened by one too many companions. Unlike some harried maître d’s or servers, Ling doesn’t have to reel off a long list of ingredients. The chawan mushi is enlivened by some amaebi (spot prawns); fresh uni (sea urchin) rests on a bed of flower crab meat, kissed by a hint of wild mitsuba parsley.

We don’t need a menu to remember what we have eaten; only our well-rewarded tastebuds. Who could forget the contrast of creamy anago (saltwater eel) enveloped in crispy, barely there tempura? Or meaty grilled tuna tataki and abalone mushroom, given some kick thanks to fiery jalapeños?

Grilled tuna tataki and abalone mushroom, with fiery jalapeños

The details do matter, of course. Instead of chicken, our karaage turns out to be deep fried quail. Orange zest and sancho pepper give it a hit of tanginess and leave our lips tingling nicely. To finish, we have a bowl of unagi chirashi, the smokiness of the freshwater eel elevated with some spicy kinome, a Japanese herb.

As we wind down with some coffee shochu, its mild bitterness a gentle pick-me-up after the fatty eel and sushi rice, we can’t help but wonder why there aren’t more places like Rōnin – seriously good food without pretension, served by folks who care first and foremost that the diners are enjoying themselves.

Rōnin

8 On Wo Lane, Ground floor, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Open daily (except Sun closed) 6pm-12am

Tel: +852 2547 5263

http://roninhk.com