SHAH ALAM, 17 Dec — Long considered "a poor man’s food”, tempeh is undergoing a resurgence of late in culinary circles.

After attending a tempeh-making class, 48-year-old Alzari Mahshar (more commonly known as Joey of Joey’s Homemade Peanut Butter fame) decided to experiment with a variety of other legumes rather than traditionally used soybeans.

He says, "I’ve tried mung beans, chickpeas, corn and red beans. Adzuki beans, I found, create a very nutty tempeh. In fact, I only make soybean tempeh upon request and even then I’d only use organic soybeans. I’ve chosen the non-soybean route so I’m not compared with other existing tempeh. I rather set my own benchmark than be benchmarked against others.”

The fermentation process (known as tape or tapai locally, from which its name is believed to have been derived) creates a nutty and earthy flavour profile.

Mung beans (back) and chickpeas (front) are two of Joey’s most popular tempeh ingredients (left). Joey is currently experimenting with lima beans to make tempeh (right)

Joey says, "Tempeh is considered a superfood due to its high protein, vitamin and fibre content. Therefore it’s a good meat substitute for vegans. While we tend to fry it locally, Westerners enjoy it in a variety of ways — steamed, grilled, in soups and even raw!”

The former corporate communications professional turned food entrepreneur hopes to make tempeh-based power bars next but he initially found success with artisanal peanut butter (launched in 2013).

This was soon followed by other homemade nut butters such as almond, pistachio and cashew butters. He says, "It was about diversification. More nut butters meant more options for my customers.”

According to Joey, not all nuts or seeds are suitable for a variety of reasons. He explains, "Take sunflower seed butter, for example. I don’t quite like its taste so I won’t feel comfortable making and selling what I don’t consume myself. I do like sesame seed butter or tahini but it doesn’t have enough market demand in Malaysia for now.”

Adding vinegar and fermentation starter to the legumes

The bestseller amongst all the nut butters is the almond butter. Joey says, "Almonds are a superfood and high in protein. The sugarless version of my almond butter is especially popular. More and more folks are into healthy foods these days, you see. Parents, in particular, are willing to pay for their family and their children.”

To this end, Joey is collaborating with local organic food purveyor Justlife to create his first organic peanut butter in 2018.

He says, "My products have always been branded as ‘all natural’ but I’m looking for certified organic producers. In fact, I will also be working with Justlife to conduct a series of monthly tempeh-making classes next year.”

Spreading the tempeh mixture on a clean daun simpoh air

Why would a tempeh maker share the secrets of his trade with others? Joey says, "I love teaching and sharing about the craft of making tempeh. I even have a post-class WhatsApp support group to encourage the participants to try their hand at making tempeh at home.

"I believe we need to be self sufficient in times to come. Moreover, tempeh is a family food — everyone can enjoy it.”

According to Joey, the process of making tempeh is quite simple. Historically, tempeh was a happy accident; created when spores fell onto discarded soybeans (the by-product of making tofu). Soon the soybeans were covered with mycelium, a white-coloured edible fungus, and a new food was born.

"What I do is the same process but cleaner. Whatever beans I use, they need to be boiled first so they become softer. I then add some vinegar to lower the pH and help the tempeh mould grow, as well as a fermentation starter.

Tempeh packages ready to undergo 24 to 36 hours of fermentation (left). Once the tempeh is ready, it is covered with a white-coloured edible fungus called mycelium (right)

"The traditional way of storing the beans while they ferment is to wrap them with daun simpoh air. Then all they need is 24 to 36 hours of fermentation at a constant temperature — and we’ll have tempeh.”

Fresh tempeh only lasts for about three days and are thus made to order, according to Joey. He says, "My mung bean tempeh is really tasty raw when it’s about one day old. The chickpea tempeh, on the other hand, is very filling, has a lovely aroma and best deep-fried.

"Currently I’m experimenting with lima beans... I’m still tweaking as it’s naturally white so the resultant tempeh is all white; there’s not much contrast. This tempeh, I prefer it grilled.”

Joey jokes that his friends say he’s gone from being a kuli kacang ("bean labourer”) to a kuli tempeh ("tempeh labourer”). A testament, perhaps, to his relentless experimenting and research.

Alzari Mahshar (or Joey) and his homemade tempeh.

Given how much he knows about nuts, beans and legumes, I can’t help but wonder if the Bean Whisperer might not be a more apt moniker for him.

To order or find out more about Joey’s nut butters and tempeh, call 018-575 6758 or visit www.facebook.com/joeyspeanutbutter. His nut butters are also available at M.A.K.A.N. by The Red Cherry (Ground floor, Jaya One, PJ).

To join Joey’s organic tempeh making classes, visit the Justlife Online Store at https://shop.justlifeshop.com/product/joeyorganictempehworkshop/