KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 25 ― A fan of wet markets, I was most eager to explore the Datuk Keramat wet market due to its proximity to the Datuk Keramat LRT. This wet market happens to be one of the oldest Malay markets in the Klang Valley and though there have been efforts to move it to the nearby Keramat Mall, the proprietors have stayed put.

Serving Kampung Datuk Keramat as well as the surrounding areas, the market is fantastic if you’re looking for a variety of cheap ingredients for cooking. Imported greens such as broccoli and asparagus were rare finds but every vegetable stall I saw had an array of over 10 types of ulam (raw greens). The poultry, beef and seafood displayed were fresh too.

These were the very items that made it to the table of Mat Teh Ikan Bakar. For RM20, the hefty slab of stingray, lightly dusted with turmeric, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled with margarine over hot plates was a steal. The flesh was wonderfully flaky and sweet, so moist that it was almost unbelievable. I would recommend copious amounts of the accompanying dip for additional zing and spiciness to the fish. Besides stingray, one can opt for tilapia, siakap and mackerel.               

A close-up of the yummy apam balik at Aman Kuih stall.

Food options within walking distance to the LRT are mostly located within the market. Just like the owners of the wet market stalls, the food stalls are run by second or third generation tradesmen.

A few of the more established businesses here include Restoran Omar Bahagia, known for its nasi ayam Singapura and Nasi Lemak Datuk Keramat; both have been in operations for almost three decades. The former’s chicken was fried whole, chopped and served with fragrant yellow rice. Within the restaurant, another stall enticed with its tantalising spread of Minang/Padang dishes. Its signature was the beef rendang where the beef was in thick, large slices as opposed to the standard dry, little chunks. The tempe was excellent too.

The nasi lemak was flavourful though a spicier kick to the sambal would have been ideal.

In the market, look for Pendang Nasi Kandar and Roti Canai. There are many stalls offering tom yam, char kuey teow, fried rice and the works, but it is the RM3 thick and delicious murtabak with the complimentary pink, tangy pickled onions that’s worth seeking out!

You’re likely to see Azahari flipping murtabak over the round griddle. Cheerful and curious, he is always happy to chat. The nasi kandar is good too.

If you fancy local sweets, Aman Kuih stall will delight you with its display of almost 50 colourful kuih and sweet porridge. The market has a few areas dedicated to food.

The array of porridge and variety of kuih at Aman Kuih stall.

Take your time to explore and you will discover all the stalls I’ve mentioned above and more. A majority of the outlets are open from early morning to lunch. In the evenings, one can enjoy Western dishes at the Tree Steak House or a steaming bowl of tom yam from a few outlets around the market.

As with most neighbourhood markets, the Datuk Keramat market is atmospheric though a tad run down. The pace is more relaxed than bigger markets like Chow Kit and there are plenty of cheap and delicious finds.

* For more gastronomic adventures — keep up with Rebecca on www.RebeccaSaw.com and instagram.com/wackybecky.

Restaurant/stall names:

(1) Aman Kuih stall

(2) Restoran Omar Bahagia

(3) Mat Teh Ikan Bakar

(4) Pendang Nasi Kandar and Roti Canai

(5) Tree Steak House

Getting there:

From the station: Exit the fare gates (there is only one exit —  Pasar Keramat/Jalan Datuk Keramat), and walk down to the street level. Cross the road and turn left followed by right at the curve. Most of the food stalls are clustered some 200 to 650 metres away, within the Datuk Keramat wet market. 

The various types of kuih at Aman Kuih stall.