SINGAPORE, May 23 — Its livers, ovaries and skin are said to contain toxins that are 100 times more poisonous than cyanide.
Yet, for some, the allure of puffer fish, or fugu in Japanese, is irresistible.
One fugu fan, Milton Wee, a business owner, discovered the latest restaurant to offer up fugu in Singapore.
Called Guenpin, the Maxwell Road eatery is the first Singapore branch of the Japanese chain, and opened in April. It specifically offers up tiger puffer fish, or torafugu.
Wee, 53, discovered Guenpin when it opened and has been visiting the restaurant at least once a week since then.
Wee, who describes himself as an adventurous foodie and who is also in the food and beverage industry, noted that "fugu eating is part of traditional Japanese culture” that dates back to the Edo period. He had not tried fugu prior to visiting Guenpin, and said he enjoys the "bounce” of fugu flesh, which is known to be relatively chewy and gelatinous.
Guenpin, Wee said, also gives him the chance to try different fugu dishes. Although fugu has been offered before in Singapore, no other restaurant has offered fugu in quite as many ways.
Guenpin’s options are to have the fish as sashimi "tessa” (thinly sliced), or "butsusashi” (in thick slices). The sushi option (with rice) is available. Or, have it cooked karaage (deep-fried), or in a hotpot. One can even have it in a porridge.
Guenpin serves torafugu (Tiger Puffer Fish) which is the highest grade in the market. Here, diners can expect to savour from puffer fish sushi priced at S$18. — Picture by Guenpin
General manager of Guenpin, Yoshiaki Tajiri, 32, said that 60 per cent of the outlet’s diners are Singaporeans. Some have had fugu in Japan but others — like Wee — are the curious. The other 40 per cent are Japanese wanting a taste of home.
The restaurant has been fully booked for dinners since its opening.
Asked about the allure of fugu, and Tajiri noted that although it is known as a potentially lethal dish, it also has health properties. The flesh of the fugu contains a lot of collagen, he said. If prepared incorrectly, or if one consumes too much of the toxins (mostly found in the liver and organs of the fish), the results can be deadly.
Fugu toxins can lead to paralysis of the muscles, suffocating victims as it reaches their chests and diaphragms while they are still conscious.
But those such as Kaz Matsune, sushi chef at Breakthrough Sushi in the United States, say that there are few actual deaths from fugu consumption. Matsune, writing for Quora.com, cited the Tokyo Public Health Department when he claimed that there were no deaths due to fugu consumption in Japan in 2012 and 2013.
Guenpin also serves torafugu (Tiger Puffer Fish), which is the highest-grade fugu on the market, said Tajiri. It is imported from Shimonoseki in Yamaguchi Prefecture in Japan, and is flown in once a week.
Once they reach Singapore shores, the fish go through strict checks to ensure that they adhere to Agri-Food and Veterinary Authority (AVA) regulations — and that all the toxins have been removed. Thus, said Tajiri, the fugu served at Guenpin is safe.
Chefs must traditionally go through special training to be able to prepare fugu safely and to that end, Guenpin’s chefs are Japan-trained. He does hope to hire Singapore chefs in the future, said Tajiri.
Guenpin is also hoping to draw diners in with another delicacy — snow crab. The restaurant serves up Snow Crab Tempura Rice Bowls and snow crab in other iterations.
To sample all the restaurant has to offer — including fugu — Tajiri recommends the Zeitaku course (S$168/RM521.49) that has a nine items. It is share-able amongst two people, although it is meant for one person, he said. — TODAY
* Guenpin is located at 32 Maxwell Road, #01-06 and opens from 12pm to 3pm for lunch and 6pm to 12am for dinner on weekdays. On weekends and public holidays, it operates from 5pm to 12am.
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