OSAKA, June 19 — You can’t miss the gigantic fish floating in mid air. Depending on which entrance you step through to get into the market, it could be a bluefin tuna, a gnarly octopus or a crusty crab.

This is representative of the seafood diversity found at Kuromon Ichiba Market in Osaka. Established during the mid-Taisho period, between 1912 and 1926, the nearly two-century-old fresh and cooked food market is one of those rare landmarks that is as local as it is touristy.

Dubbed “Osaka’s Kitchen”, this is where the city’s professional chefs and restauranteurs source the  freshest catch to plate up for their discerning customers, while housewives shop to feed their families and meet their household needs. At the same time, Kuromon draws as many (if not more) tourists looking to sink their teeth into plump, juicy seafood and other meats prepared in a number of ways.

Kuromon Ichiban Market dates back nearly 200 years

Gigantic fish hang at the entrances to the market (left). Beef bounty for Wagyu lovers, which can be cooked on the spot as well (right)

Photo opportunities abound at every turn. Fish of all varieties lay glistening on beds of crushed ice; stacks of shellfish separated and priced by size; skewered baby octopus propped up invitingly like lollipops; spiny sea urchins encasing creamy ochre insides.

Seafood may be the main appeal at Kuromon but it is certainly not the limitation — you can shop all other food types as well, including beautifully-marbled Kobe beef and mounds of salted or pickled vegetables that sit in wooden bins, spread like a rustic salad bar. Supermarkets display colourful arrays of seasonal fruits and other cooking ingredients, including imported items, next to kiosks selling fresh juices and smoothies.

Cleaning an uni is a delicate procedure but these proprietors make light work of it

A tuna head takes pride of place at the counter of this sashimi stall

The 170 or so shops that populate this 600-metre-long market also sell non-food items including household goods, clothes, toiletries and fashion accessories. These tend to be in the quieter corners or sit on the fringe of the main bazaar as understandably, the crowds tend to converge where the food is.

Whether it’s breakfast, lunch or an early dinner (most stalls close by or are sold out by 5pm), there’s a veritable feast to be had at Kuromon. The most attractive thing about dining here is how fresh everything is — not just in the produce, but also in the approach to preparing them.

Oden is a popular comfort food, especially in winter

Roe, roe, roe your boat

As you walk past the stalls, you will be greeted with a cacophony of invitations to try the food. On weekends, just follow the crowds and eat where the longest lines form. It’s best to go in a group so you have more people to split the generous portions with and get to try a bigger variety of food without the guilt of wastage. If you’re on your own and want to make the most of your visit, these are the food to save tummy space for.

Some like it raw

Make your belly happy with some tuna belly

Pink and melt-in-the-mouth fatty — nothing beats starting the day with top grade sashimi. Make your belly happy with tuna belly, sold by chunks and displayed in chillers. Take your pick, pay for it and then wait while they slice it up for you. For a more substantial meal, you can have it over rice topped with minced tuna and edamame.

What’s your beef?

From thin sukiyaki-ready slices to tenderloin slabs, if you’re a fan of Kobe beef, you will have a hard time choosing the cut. The marbling is gorgeous, as you would expect of this delectable variant. Pack some to bring home or have them cook the meat on the broiler, giving it a quick sizzle to sear the outside while keeping it pink and soft in the middle.

Ode to oden

Uofuku’s grilled butter-soy sauce scallop is pure umami in every juicy bite

Hokkaido oysters are another crowd puller at Kuromon

Found everywhere from convenience stores to Michelin-starred restaurants, the winter favourite oden is akin to our steamboat. Bite-sized pieces of meat on skewers, fishballs, fish cakes, daikon and tofu stew away in bubbling, steaming stock that emits a comforting aroma. The monochromatic tones suggest blandness but oden is quite the opposite. The rich broth is comforting on its own, and its flavours are well infused into the meats and other bites. It’s easy to lose track of how much you’ve eaten.

Feed that urchin urge

Spiky on the outside, sublime on the inside — those who love uni (sea urchin) will agree to this. Usually served in a rice bowl, uni has also made it into nigiri sushi form but there are those who would argue that rice, nori and any other accompaniments simply dilute the true umami glory of this ocean “custard.” If you’re a purist, stake out the uni stalls where upon order, the spiny orbs are cut, pried open, cleaned out and washed under running water. Watching the proprietors prepare uni is not unlike witnessing a delicate surgery. In no time, half shells cradling intense yellow-orange flesh will be presented in front of you and ready to be inhaled.

Scallops that will make you smile

Your sashimi doesn’t get any fresher than this

You can have scallops on skewers at a number of stalls or join the line at Uofuku, where the mollusc comes in several sizes with prices starting from 500 Yen (RM19) for one. Your chosen scallop is shucked and cleaned then thrown onto a charcoal grill with knobs of butter and a good dousing of soy sauce. With just one person handling orders and the cooking at the same time (and using just one small grill), you can expect a wait — but it will be worth it.

Travellers’ tips

Getting there Take the Kintetsu Railway (Namba or Nara lines) or subway (Sennichimae or Sakaisuji lines) to Nippombashi station and go out through Exit 10. The market is about two minutes away on foot.

White strawberries are currently in season and sold as juices too

Opening hours Varies from shop to shop, but typically between 8am-5pm.

Free rest area You can eat while standing at the respective kiosks or stalls or take your food to this well-marked spot located in the centre of the market. Here, you can eat comfortably at tables and grab drinks from the vending machines. There are also restrooms and WiFi.

WiFi Many major cities in Japan have a free WiFi service for tourists, with a growing number of hotspots that can usually be found at popular landmarks. In Osaka, the Kuromon Market is covered by this service. You just need to register once and your account will be valid for two weeks, but each session is limited to 1 hour (you can reconnect as many times as you want).

The rest area also provides free WiFi, washrooms and vending machines

Money changer Next to the Free Rest Area is a shop selling socks but right at the back, you will find a machine that accepts most major currencies and offers competitive rates.

If she had to live on just one type of cuisine, Vivian Chong would pick Japanese in a heartbeat. Read her other travel and food adventures at http://thisbunnyhops.com/