SINGAPORE, April 11 — An indication of the quality fare that Chao San Cuisine dishes out can be found in the crowds that pack the heritage eatery during lunch and dinner.

Although the Teochew restaurant moved to Philip Street from Beach Road in January, its fans have already ferreted out its new location and are visiting in droves. Suffice it to say, there are only minimal changes to the restaurant. It boasts a new logo and brand identity; a Facebook page to attract primarily a younger clientele; and its seating capacity has increased three-fold. But in the kitchen, husband-and-wife team Koh Hoon Liang and Nancy Koh remain at the helm.

“Don’t worry, all the dishes we serve here are still the same,” assured Hoon Liang, who is still the head chef.

The crowds are back at Chao San Cuisine, which has a new home on Beach Road. — TODAY pic

Hoon Liang, who perfected his culinary skills at his father’s restaurant, the renowned Guan Hin, sees to the preparation of familiar Teochew favourites. These include the steamed pomfret, where the meat is firm but flaky and sits in a clear, tangy broth with white pieces of pork lard balanced on top. Hoon Liang said the inclusion of lard is a must to stay true to the original recipe and it adds flavour to the dish.

No Teochew meal is complete without braised goose (S$20/RM58), and the one served here, which uses goose imported from Hungary, is a must-have. The bird is sliced just right and is tender to a tee. Another must-order is the oyster pancake (S$18). Yes, pork lard is added here too, but it also helps make the mollusc-packed omelette extra crispy.

The crispy oyster pancake is a must-have. — TODAY pic

If you do not mind an oilier vegetable dish, the mustard greens served in a claypot (S$15) is a new way of presenting the seasonal ingredient. Braised for an hour, it is melt-in-the-mouth soft, and comes accompanied with cloves of garlic, pork, Chinese mushrooms and scallops.

There is also much to look forward to for dessert. While the traditional yam paste (orh nee) is on the menu, a more unusual pick is the water chestnut pancake (S$12). Diced into cubes, the vegetable is coated with glutinous rice flour then deep-fried, and served sprinkled with fragrant ground peanuts. It is reminiscent of the Teochew snack called muah chee, albeit less chewy.

The dish of braised goose here uses goose imported from Hungary. — TODAY pic

Hoon Liang shared how he learned the recipe from the restaurants in his hometown of Shantou in China, where the couple visits at least once a year to catch up on the latest in the dining scene there, as well as to source for interesting ingredients.

This, of course, is a boon for fans of Chao San — because these could well be added to the menu. — TODAY

* Chao San Cuisine. Where: 17 Philip Street. Telephone: +65 6336 2390. Opening hours: Daily, 11.30am to 3pm; 6pm to 10pm.