SINGAPORE, Jan 7 — There is a sense of happy chaos at Bird Bird, Singaporean chef Bjorn Shen’s pop-up concept-turned-full-time-eatery that recently opened along Ann Siang Road. The music is loud, the decorations are, as Shen puts it, “trashy” (in the middle of the ceiling is a rats’ nest of wax paper lanterns strung together with fairground light bulbs, for starters) and the compact space is appointed with tables, stools and benches nudged close together.

This almost ramshackle tableau sets the tone for the menu of Thai dishes that Shen imbues with his signature dude-food-spirited inventiveness. Spicy minced duck is served with snake beans, a fried egg and hash browns in a dish he calls Basil Duck Tater Tots (S$22/RM67.60), while the full-flavoured flesh of roasted lamb rib marinated in things like smoked chillies, lime juice, and fish sauce is tempered by grassy Thai herbs and roasted rice powder that gives it a lovely, toasty edge (Waterfall Lamb, S$28).

The delectably pungent green papaya is great with a little sticky rice. — TODAY pic

But as its name and signboard (which states Palace Of Thai Chicken) suggest, Bird Bird is, first and foremost, about the poultry. Apart from those spicy duck tater tots, there is Gai Yang (S$25), Issan-style barbequed chicken that is seasoned right to the edge with lemongrass, oyster sauce, fish sauce, coriander and the like, and Gai Tod (S$25), Southern-style Thai fried chicken with green chilli nam jim (spicy dipping sauce).

In a place that prides itself on cooking birds, it’s only natural to want to order the fried chicken. But in our humble opinion, the barbeque chicken is the tastier option, especially with its hot and tangy chilli tamarind dipping sauce.

Gai Tod: Southern-style Thai fried chicken served with spicy dipping sauce. — TODAY pic

Other dishes we tried and adored were the Umami Corn (S$14), ears of barbequed corn thickly slicked with a glaze of Sriracha sauce mixed with Japanese mayo and shrimp crumbs, and the som tum or green papaya salad (S$14), spiced with a delectably pungent fermented fish sauce. Devour the latter with pinches of sticky rice (S$3, served wrapped in plastic, just like they do on Thai streets) and get ready to leave the restaurant with some serious devil’s breath.

To cleanse your palate, order the Bird Bird Sundae (S$8), comprising coconut ice cream topped with palm sugar caramel, corn and fried chicken skins. This is much better than the tempting Neh Neh Pops (S$7 to S$8 each) — popsicles in flavours such as Snickers and Mango Sticky Rice, which are only novel in theory — and the overly milky and weakly flavoured Thai Red Milk Tea Slushie (S$5).

Now still in its early days, the menu remains in a state of flux. The fabulous Coq Scratchings, or fried chicken skins that we enjoyed on our first visit are no longer available, while the fried chicken has gone through several incarnations in the name of improvement.

With the restaurant’s no-reservations policy, it’s not uncommon for guests to find themselves getting in line at the door, especially in the evenings. Consider yourselves advised. — TODAY

Bird Bird

Where: 18 Ann Siang Road

http://www.facebook.com/birdbirdsg

Opening hours:

Tuesday to Thursday 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm

Friday and Saturday 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 11pm

Closed on Sunday and Monday