Eat-drink
The composed salad — arranged, not tossed
A composed salad, from the French u00e2u20acu02dcsalade composee,u00e2u20acu2122 in New York, May 6, 2015. u00e2u20acu201d Picture by Sabra Krock for The New York Times

NEW YORK, May 20 — What’s the difference between a salad and a composed salad? From the French “salade composée,” a composed salad is simply salad arranged on a plate rather than tossed in a bowl.

But for the American cook in summer, it is much more than that: a back-pocket lunch or dinner that can be endlessly reinvented and served to many people at any time. It shows off the intense, irresistible vegetables, herbs and fruits of the season — but can also have rich components like cheese, eggs, toasted nuts and smoked fish or meat. With a loaf of (preferably grilled) bread, it is a meal in itself.

Like the VIP pass at a music festival that gets you a folding chair and access to a charging station, a composed salad provides a little extra organisation and luxury, but still holds the wild spirit of summer.

That’s because it can contain almost anything the cook wants to arrange, roll, roast, poach, bake or grill, from thin shavings of fennel and whole kernels of local corn to dollops of ricotta and shards of country ham. Tossed together, the results would be sloppy and monotonous. A bit of order makes it satisfying and elegant.

A controlled riot is the goal, which can be achieved by choosing one or two elements from each category on the list here. Lay them out on one vast platter (the prettier choice) or on individual plates (faster). Ingredients can be arranged in loose stripes or wedges, or be artfully distributed around the platter. (Sprinkling everything with fresh herbs at the end is a good way to cover up any gaps in artfulness.) A composed salad is not tossed with its dressing; it lies down flat, and gets drizzled. Or you may toss just the vegetables with dressing, then bring on the other ingredients, swirling olive oil over all to make the dish shiny and golden. It is almost impossible to use too much olive oil for this purpose.

Resist any temptation to dice everything into bite-size pieces; you want to see clearly that right here is a pile of roasted baby zucchini, there a ball of milky fresh mozzarella, and just within reach, the wrinkled black olives and heirloom cherry tomatoes that are delicious with both. To serve, place the platter on the table with several sets of implements (wide spatulas are especially useful) so guests can lift out ingredients as desired.


Foolproof lemon-garlic mayonnaise, a tasty dressing option for composed salad, in New York, May 6, 2015.

Foolproof Lemon-Garlic Mayonnaise

Time: 15 minutes

Yield: 1 heaping cup

1 clove garlic, minced

4 oil-packed anchovies, minced (optional)

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. In small food processor or container of an immersion blender, combine garlic, anchovies, egg yolk and mustard. With machine running, slowly drizzle in 2 tablespoons olive oil and process until mixture is smooth and starts to thicken, about 2 minutes.

2.            With machine still running, slowly add remaining olive oil, lemon juice and 1 teaspoon very hot water. (A small splash from the kettle or tap is the right amount.) Process just until mixture reaches a loose mayonnaise consistency. If it curdles or becomes too thick, mix in more hot water a little at a time, pulsing machine so as not to overmix. Taste and adjust seasoning with more lemon juice, salt or pepper. Serve immediately, using a spoon to drizzle over salad, or cover and refrigerate up to 8 hours. Best served fresh, but keeps 2 days.


Hazelnut-chive dressing, a tasty option to complement a composed salad, in New York, May 6, 2015.

Hazelnut-Chive Dressing

Time: 20 minutes, plus overnight marinating

Yield: ½ cup

1/3 cup finely minced shallots

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons finely snipped chives, plus more for garnish

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon pink peppercorns, lightly crushed (optional)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to taste

Salt

½ cup raw peeled hazelnuts

1.            In a jar or bowl, combine shallots, vinegar, chives, sugar, peppercorns, olive oil and ½ teaspoon salt. Shake or mix well, cover and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before using. Shake well, taste, and adjust seasonings with more salt, vinegar, sugar or olive oil. Transfer to a serving bowl.

2.            Heat oven to 350 degrees. Spread hazelnuts on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and toast until golden and fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes. As soon as they come out of the oven, sprinkle lightly with salt. Let cool until you can handle them, then coarsely chop. Gently stir nuts into dressing, sprinkle top of dressing generously with fresh chives and serve immediately, using a spoon to drizzle over salad. Best served fresh, but keeps up to 3 days in refrigerator.


Grilled garlic bread, a wonderful, crunchy complement to a composed salad, in New York, May 6, 2015.

Grilled Garlic Bread

Time: 15 minutes

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

1 large (or 2 small loaves) baguette or ciabatta bread, preferably whole grain

Olive oil

2 garlic cloves, not peeled

1 large ripe tomato, halved (optional)

Coarse salt such as kosher or Maldon

1.            Cut bread in half lengthwise, and cut in half crosswise if very long. Brush cut surfaces of bread lightly with olive oil. Under a broiler or on a grill, toast bread, turning a few times, until cut surfaces are golden brown. (If using a broiler, you can place bread directly on the oven rack.)

2.            Remove bread to a work surface, grab a garlic clove with your fingertips and rub it lightly over the cut surfaces of the bread. (The papery skin of the garlic will come off.) When the bread is well scented with garlic, brush again with olive oil and toast again. If using tomato, rub the cut surfaces against the bread so the bread absorbs the juice. Oil and toast bread one last time, until golden and charred. Sprinkle lightly with salt and serve immediately. — The New York Times

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