KLANG, Feb 15 ­— Asam laksa may be found all over the Klang Valley but it’s hard to find one with that appetising balance of sour, sweet and spicy that can please the fussy tastebuds of Penang folks.

If you don’t want to make the tedious journey up north for your asam laksa fix, how about swinging by Restoran Angcle Peoh in Klang, where the asam laksa is probably as close as you can get to the real deal.

Ang Kok Peoh (or Angcle Peoh, a play on his surname “Ang” that sounds similar to Uncle Peoh), 63, runs the place together with his daughter, Ang Kar Bee, 38.

The Ang family traces its asam laksa legacy back to one of the more popular asam laksa stalls at Air Itam market in Penang.

Angcle Peoh recalls that it all started in 1950 when his mother started to peddle asam laksa, fried meehoon and toasted cuttlefish at a stall beside the bridge near Air Itam market.

Later she would just focus on asam laksa, the most sought-after item at the stall. Every day, his mother would walk about four kilometres to Air Itam, carrying a load of laksa ingredients and soup in a rattan basket hanging from a pole.

You won't be able to stop eating this fragrant fried tom yam noodles with seafood, a creation by Ang Kar Bee

Eventually after five years, she scored a permanent spot in the market, next to the legendary Penang white curry mee stall run by two elderly sisters.

When Angcle Peoh was seven years old, his mother could afford a bicycle to transport their ingredients. About 10 years later, they upgraded to a pedicab.

When Angcle Peoh turned 27, the family eventually saved up enough to switch to a small lorry. The asam laksa stall became a popular stopover for Kek Lok Si temple dwellers who could not get enough of their addictive spicy and sour fish broth with rice noodles.

Three generations of the Ang family (from left to right): Tham Hooi Chin, Tham Kum Fook, Ang Kar Bee with Ang Kok Peoh or Angcle Peoh

Following a family dispute, Angcle Peoh decided to relocate here to help Kar Bee with this restaurant that opened last March. Previously Kar Bee operated a stall in Subang Jaya’s Asia Cafe with her husband, Tham Kum Fook.

Eventually they closed that stall to concentrate on this Klang restaurant. Aside from the Air Itam stall and this Klang restaurant, another branch of the Ang family started an asam laksa stall at Genting Cafe, Island Glades, Penang.

The choice to open in Klang was primarily due to their existing customer base, as many lived around the area. It was also easier for the Ang family who work long hours at the restaurant since they too live within the vicinity.

The asam laksa is cooked to a recipe handed down by Angcle Peoh’s mother. “You cannot skimp on the ingredients as you can taste the difference,” explained Angcle Peoh.

The dish takes about five to six hours to cook. Some items like the chilli paste is prepared from scratch using a stone grinder just like the old days.

In terms of ingredients, the fish and the noodles are sourced locally but the prawn paste or hae koh is brought in from Penang, as they use the Grade A variety that does not give an overly fishy smell.

Most stalls in the Klang Valley like to use ikan kembung or even canned sardines to prepare their asam laksa, but Angcle Peoh insists on using fresh sardines.

This is sourced by bulk from the Selayang Market. As their appetising laksa broth is generously filled with the flaked fish, they finish 400 kilograms of sardines within two weeks!

According to Kar Bee, a slight difference between their asam laksa versus the Air Itam stall’s, is the texture of their freshly-made rice noodles. The ones in Penang tend to be more translucent and does not absorb the broth.

The ones sourced from a manufacturer in the Klang Valley tends to have a softer texture and the strands also absorb a little of the broth’s taste.

A popular side dish eaten with the asam laksa is the rojak with an aromatic sauce made from prawn paste

Once an order is placed, a bowl of noodles is assembled with a generous amount of chopped green lettuce leaves, fresh mint leaves, shredded cucumber and sliced onions.

The hot laksa broth is used to lightly blanch the noodles. Once it’s ready, a dollop of thick dark brown hae koh is added with a sprinkle of finely chopped torch ginger flower and green chillies before serving.

We recommend you inhale deeply of the fragrant aroma before you enjoy every spoonful of the laksa down to the last addictive drop.

The restaurant also serves a variety of Penang food items, like char kway teow fried with duck egg, rojak, fried Hokkien noodle (Hokkien char) and curry mee.

The char kway teow with duck egg tastes quite close to the ones found in Penang

Some menu items like the fried tomyam noodles are Kar Bee’s creation. The aromatic fried wheat noodles with seafood is a nod towards her Thai mother. Other items, she learnt to cook from her grandfather, like the curry mee and the Hokkien char.

She started helping out at her father’s asam laksa stall from the time she was seven. Food definitely runs in their bloodline, as her eldest daughter who is 18-years-old is already following in her footsteps and helping her at the restaurant.

She believes in not taking any shortcuts for their dishes. For instance, their aromatic rojak sauce takes up to five hours to slowly cook to get its thick consistency.

The origin of the asam laksa is told on the walls of the restaurant

The restaurant also does catering, with a minimum order of 200 bowls. If it’s a small order, you can also bring your own pot and they will pack the noodles and ingredients for you to ladle out the asam laksa at home.

Most customers who visit the place often take away packets of asam laksa for their family members. Some customers even come from as far as Seremban to get their asam laksa fix.

After Chinese New Year, Kar Bee will be introducing seven new menu items, mostly one-dish meals. Customers can look forward to Penang-style chee cheong fun with the aromatic prawn paste sauce, tomyam fried rice, fried rice and

Look for this sign for Penang asam laksa in Klang

Cantonese fried noodles or wat tan hor. Even her fried noodles, a new menu item to be introduced, uses a special broth or siong tong for a more tasty dish. In April, fans can look forward to another outlet opening in Bukit Rimau.

Restoran Angcle Peoh, 42, Lorong Batu Nilam 21B, Bandar Bukit Tinggi 2, Klang. Tel:017-93622223. Open daily: 10am to 9pm. For Chinese New Year, they are closed on January 18 and 19. https://www.facebook.com/restoran.angclepeoh