KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 12 — Relax on an Eames Plastic Side Chair while tucking into a traditional Japanese rice bowl, or recline in the Eames leather Lounge Chair and Ottoman while sipping a cup of coffee.
Catching up with friends for a late night cuppa? You’ll be comfortable in a Wegner’s President Chair or the Grant Featherston R160 Contour Chair upholstered in blue.
And if you’d like to have any of these and other iconic mid-century designs for your home, you can pre-order them through the cafe where they being used — Exhibit Cafe in Taman Tun Dr Ismail.
With wall-length windows that let natural light in during the day, the dining area has an understated Zen-like ambience that feels like the uber mod living room of a well-appointed urban home.
The designer furniture may fill up most of the space but far from crowding it, they are well placed and complement each other. Deciding which chair you would like to test out as you enjoy your drink or meal, you will find yourself taking note of how the seat feels and perhaps, subconsciously, try to figure out if or how it might fit into your home.
Each product they sell emphasises form and function
Exhibit is, after all, not just a cafe but a lifestyle store that suggests a way of life that’s fuss-free and practical with an aesthetically-pleasing edge. Its retail section is stocked with tableware, enamelware, coffee drippers, drinkware, stationery and handcrafted ceramics that are mostly imported from Japan, chosen for their artisanal quality and minimalist designs.
A selection of independent magazines — including popular titles like Cereal, Apartamento, Frankie and Smith Journal — is also available, while two glass cabinets house vintage stationery and fun collectibles.
If you haven’t guessed it by now, Exhibit has a decidedly Japanese focus in its approach. It’s not surprising, given co-owner Rie Mizoguchi’s heritage and love for designs that marry form with function. “I like things that can enhance one’s daily experiences,” she explains, adding that the cafe’s motto is ‘life is art’. Exhibit is so-named as it was conceived as a space that displays good art that people can enjoy and if they wish, take home (for a price, of course).
Lifestyle products, mostly from Japan, curated by Rie herself (left). Whimsical Mugtails from Kinto feature debossed animal motifs and handles in the shape of their tails (right)
Her Malaysian husband and business partner, Loo See Hin, shares that philosophy. “An item needs to be used to become more beautiful, which then makes us more likely to continue using them,” he says.
The interaction between user and product is what gives life and value to a design, much like how a coffee aficionado or cafe hopper would feel upon experiencing what Exhibit has to offer.
Specialty beans and more
Exhibit’s forte is hand-dripped coffees, with single origins and blends by Maruyama Coffee. One of Japan’s best-known roasters, Maruyama uses only specialty beans — that is, coffee that has a distinctive flavour and has scored more than 80 points according to the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s cupping protocol.
Just three cafes outside of Japan serves Maruyama Coffee, and Exhibit is one of them
They include Premium Beans selected by Ninety Plus, a Denver-based coffee producer that’s renowned for their rare and exclusive coffees, which are roasted by Maruyama.
“We first tried Maruyama Coffee on one of our regular trips back to Japan, and actually picked up a bag of their beans from Dean & Delucca,” Rie recalls. She has long been a coffee drinker and had worked part-time at a cafe during her student days to learn more about the bean.
See Hin, on the other hand, had only tried our local Hainanese coffee but the high caffeine content quickened his heartbeat so he never drank much.
When they tried Maruyama, the couple knew that it was the only coffee they wanted to serve at their cafe — an idea that they had been bouncing off each other since meeting through mutual friends in 2008 but didn’t seriously begin planning until three years ago. What made Maruyama’s coffee stand out for them was the fact that whether you drink it hot or cold, the brew is always pleasant.
Rie demonstrating the Cores Gold Filter
“Some coffees turn sour, bitter or even take on a funky smell once they cool down,” See Hin explains. “Maruyama’s, on the other hand, maintains a good, rounded acidity throughout.” The couple set up a meeting with Sakamoto Yoshihara, the right hand man of founder Kentaro Maruyama. Yoshihara-san is also a trainer and under his tutelage, Maruyama’s baristas have aced the Japan Barista Championship every year since 2009.
Knowing that Maruyama Coffee is extremely fussy about quality control and how their brand and products would be presented, the couple were understandably nervous. “We had no prior experience and what we intended to set up was this small outfit, there was no way that we could run through the amount that their other outlets do on a regular basis,” says See Hin.
But one meeting was all it took to convince Maruyama Coffee that they were the right people to bring the brand into Malaysia. See Hin believes it was Rie who really sold them on the idea with her passion and conviction, and so it is that Exhibit is only the third cafe outside of Japan that carries Maruyama Coffee’s range.
Not your average joe
Ordering a cuppa at Exhibit thus goes well beyond deciding between a black or white (espresso-based drinks are available too, using Illy’s beans) but is almost a study in the best java.
Exhibit Cafes offers a good range of hand drip coffee makers to choose from
At any one time, Exhibit has about 15 single origins on its menu, each explained in detail: Country of origin, name of farm, varietal and tasting notes. Unless you’re a connoisseur, the information will hardly make it any easier to narrow down your choices — in fact, on the contrary, it can be overwhelming.
Rie and See Hin are always happy to take their customers through the selections and for those who are new to specialty coffees, you can start with one of four special blends that have been selected to help you figure out your preferences — strong or light, more or less acidic? You also get to choose the dripper, a selection of which are displayed on their coffee counter.
The couple’s current favourite is the Cores Gold Filter, plated in 24K gold and with vertical slits instead of the usual round openings, hence better for extracting flavours.
Jointly developed with Kentaro Maruyama, it’s no surprise that it brings out the best of their beans. “There is no paper to absorb anything so what you get is a ‘naked’ cup of coffee, which is why it’s important to use only the finest beans,” See Hin elaborates while Rie prepares a serving of Ethiopia Hachira Medium Roast for me, using the Cores.
Vintage pieces like this side table from Second Charm complement their aesthetics to a T (left). Harney & Sons teas from New York sold by the tin and are also on Exhibit’s menu (right)
The bean’s profile is described as having a floral and refreshing aroma like lemon or lime, with a smooth and fine mouth feel. Although I can’t discern the citrus notes, the liquid gold goes down smoothly and doesn’t leave a bitter or pokey aftertaste as I often experience with black coffee.
Being a white coffee drinker, I request for fresh milk to add to the brew. “Adding milk is fine, some people find that it brings out the flavours more,” See Hin assures me. “But sugar is a no-no; it will drown out the very qualities of the coffee that you’re paying good money for.”
With prices starting from RM13 and going up to RM88 for rare coffees such as the Panama Juliette while award-winning beans average RM38 per cup, specialty coffees are obviously not your average joes. Consider this, however: Coffee has more aroma and flavour components than wine and it is no secret that wine lovers usually enjoy coffees just as much. A fine cup of hand-dripped specialty coffee is thus not unlike a good vintage.
Dining delights
Coffee may be their forte but Exhibit’s other offerings are no less delightful, including collaborations with food providers and friends of the couple who prefer to stay anonymous for the time being.
There are traditional Japanese dishes that Rie grew up eating such as Beef Soboro Gohan (rice topped with minced beef and egg) and Teriyaki Chicken Don, supplied by a Japanese restaurant.
Exhibit’s signature Saute Chicken with Fresh Tomato Sauce (left). The Rose Blossom is built from layers of dacquiose, fresh watermelon and fresh cream (right)
Savoury pies and breads are provided by a baker friend, as are a few desserts. The Rose Blossom is a must-try, a beautiful creation that sandwiches a slice of fresh watermelon between layers of almond dacquoise and cream, topped with fresh strawberries and grapes.
Rie’s own recipes make up the rest of the food options. Her Chicken Saute with Fresh Tomato Sauce is an Exhibit signature and must be eaten as soon as it’s served (take out is not allowed for this dish) or you’ll miss out on the best part: The ultra-crispy skin, covering a moist and well-seasoned piece of deboned chicken. It’s served with a side of garlicky chopped tomato dressed in a homemade sauce with hints of raspberry vinegar, a green salad and two small rolls (laugen and focaccia).
Besides coffees, you can pair your food with Valrhona chocolate drinks, fruit juices or a selection of teas, including New York-based Harney & Sons. The latter is also sold by the canisters at Exhibit’s retail corner and vice-versa, selected tableware is used at the cafe.
Drinks, for example, are placed on the rubber-pinned PIT coasters while pies are served on Kinto’s Fika Lunch Wood Plates. What better way to illustrate their ethos of embracing life as art, and to bring beauty into our daily lives?
Exhibit Cafe is at 86A Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur Tel +603 7731 3311 Opens 11am-8pm, Sun-Tue & Thur; 11am-12am, Fri-Sat & eve of public holidays; closed Wed www.facebook.com/exhibitcafe.ttdi
Vivian Chong is a nomad and foodie who documents her travel and lifestyle adventures at http://thisbunnyhops.com
* An earlier version of the article contained a mistake with the spelling of Maruyama Coffee which has since been corrected.
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