KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 16 ― My time in KL is up; work contract is completed, tax issues sorted out, EPF claimed back, so the only things left to do are to pack, throw a little party, and then say goodbyes and farewells.

The latter usually involves food, of course, and as I had always expressed interest in unusual but good local restaurants not hyped up by blogs and magazines, a couple of friends decided to show me around places like Bandar Baru Sentul, Salak South and Pudu Ulu.

These are places (best described as unsophisticatedly rustic) which I would never have dreamt of visiting by myself, even though I am not squeamish about hygiene and clean floors; I just would not know where to start.

Anyway, my friends are Mr Chew who works in banking, as do most of the people I know ― and Mr Ho who works in software, as do most of the other people I know professionally.

As I don’t drive, they very kindly decided to drive me around to visit some of their favourite restaurants – most of which have been operating since their youth. As an indication of time, let’s just say that they, like me, are past the age when one can be considered tender spring chickens, which isn’t that bad as most tender chickens tend to get eaten around here.

Restoran Laut Lau Heong

So one evening, Mr Chew rounded us up to visit Restoran Makanan Laut Lau Heong somewhere in the depths of Bandar Baru Sentul. This is a place unlikely to ever win any Michelin stars ― but only because of the non-availability of a decent wine list (or any wines at all).

There wasn’t any sommelier in attendance either but regardless of such minor deficiencies, our dinner was really rather good.  A smashing Chinese fish head curry and the ginger squid and prawns were the highlights, though the chicken wings and manta ray in black bean sauce were not far behind at all.

The fish head curry was steamily fragrant, the squid was seriously tasty and manta ray was silken smoothness. If you have never eaten here, and don’t mind coming to Sentul, do try the place as I think it’s pretty worthwhile.

Please note that parking is best at the back of the restaurant and to save time going around the block from the car park, you can walk through the block by cutting through Restoran Aji right next door. That was the sensible advice of the owner of Lau Heong who was personally organising the parking for his patrons when we went for our dinner there.

The Chinese Fish Head Curry with Ginger Squid behind it at Lau Heong's... what's there not to like? (lefy). Lau Heong's Manta Ray in Black Bean Sauce tastes way better than it looks (right)

Restoran Sek Me Choy

On the next Sunday, we were scheduled to visit some chicken place in Jalan Chan Sow Lin but as they were closed, we repaired to Salak South for some inexplicable reason to eat at Restoran Sek Me Choy, a restaurant that was opened by a tin trader and has been operating for some 50 years.

As the tin mining industry is predominantly run by Hakkas, the food was very home-style Hakka and very authentic indeed. Mr Ho drove us here this time and we parked illegally outside the police station to walk across the road to the restaurant.

The food was pretty good, though I am not a great expert on Hakka food but their signature peppery bak kut teh was totally delicious, the braised pork belly was fine and the pork stew was quite edible with the yam and vegetable rice.

Braised pork belly... it's all about pork at Sek Me Choy in Jalan Chan Sow Lin (left). The peppery bak kut teh at Sek Me Choy is a must-try (right)

On the way out, we saw the lunch of the waiters – quite yummy-looking fried liver slices with chives. If I ever return, I will try their dish for sure.

Restoran Char Siew Yoong

The last place we visited together was Restoran Char Siew Yoong in Pudu Ulu or Ulu Pudu, depending on who you ask. Again, it’s in a rather dilapidated part of town that feels rather more rural than being just a few hundred metres from some rather busy KL main roads.

The serving ladies here are fierce, but understandably so, as the place was heaving with people wanting to eat the signature char siew (or red roast pork) dish. To be honest, I was a little sceptical about their char siew until I tried it – and it was simply fantastic, with a delicious aromatic honeyed crunch around the soft tender slices of fat and meat.

It’s here that I was informed that the best char siew is actually made from the cheeks of the pig, not the belly as is often assumed. So now you know. The rest of the dishes are pretty good too, like the Nyonya fish cooked in sauce, braised pork, bean sprouts and stewed chicken feet. However, if you are here, don’t ever forget to order the fabulous char siew.

The waitresses at Char Siew Yoong are fiercely efficient (left). The nyonya steamed fish at Char Siew Yoong is tasty (right)

Footnote

In terms of ambience, well, there wasn’t any at any of the restaurants above, at least, not in the classical sense – these are the sort of places where young mothers in tracksuits stroll around with babies and people sit eating with their plastic slippers (which they sometimes slip off to cool their feet).

The décor in all the above places is generally pretty rudimental – and even Sek Me Choy’s somewhat odd attempts at reinvigoration with a yellow wall arch and large wall pictures didn’t really help much.

But you know, I don’t mind – these are all very eclectically Chinese places and this is just how life is. There is a sort of a simple expectation, an untroubled mood as one waits for the dishes to arrive, relaxed in the knowledge that the dining will be good and convivial – in many ways, this is rather easier and more trustworthy than the contrived snobbery of many “high-end” restaurants, which often flap around while serving rather inferior food. 

And so if you really are interested in good food and not just swanky joints, you really can do much, much worse than savouring good meals in these sorts of places. Millions of Malaysians have been brought up eating at places like these – these are where they learnt how to enjoy and appreciate the textures, flavours and aromas of good honest Chinese food.

I hope that these kind of restaurants survive a few more generations, or at least, until I can return, bringing over my family here to try them. Oh, and the price of dining is ridiculously cheap – none of the above meals for three cost more than RM80 in total, including our usual iced Chinese teas.

As the name suggests, char siew (left) is the star here

Addresses

Restoran Makanan Laut Lau Heong

43A-0-9, Jalan 3/48A

Sentul Perdana

Bandar Baru Sentul

Restoran Sek Me Choy

195-199 Jalan Besar

Salak South

Restoran Char Siew Yoong

23 Jalan Pudu Ulu

Cheras