Where to start? — Banana leaf set at Passions of Kerala. — Picture by Eelee Koay

GEORGE TOWN, June 29 — If you see ever catch me sniffing my fingers, let me first explain by saying that they have not been anywhere gross.

I can’t say the same for others, but the likelihood is that they’ve just been getting down and dirty with spices and chutney in a heap of curry love that is banana leaf rice.

A mound of fluffy white rice on a banana leaf accompanied by the cook’s choice of chutney and vegetarian sides bathed in a mixture of curry - such a simple thing, such a wonderful thing.

Banana leaf rice isn’t that easy to find compared to the ubiquitous 24-hour “mamak” restaurants  that scream out at you with their largely lettered signs in all their pink, green, yellow, blue glory; sometimes an eyesore, often a beacon of hope on desperate late nights.

Not the case with banana leaf rice in Penang. It is by no means luxury food but that doesn’t stop it from being elegantly simple, refined in its own way, sort of the quiet brother that is full of potential but doesn’t like to shout about it.

Finding good banana leaf rice takes some effort though, since most of the time they’re hidden in some neighbourhood you’ll never chance upon unless someone tells you about it.

If you’re like me and you like to eat banana leaf rice without distracting things like loud people for example, then I think you will appreciate these two spots that are already rekindling sweet taste memories as I write this.

Hardly noticeable as you drive along the stretch of Art Deco era housing along Service Road off the busy Him Heang Tambun Biscuit section of Burmah Road, Passions of Kerala is one of those places that need little promoting.

And therefore need little indication of their presence. Anyone who appreciates Southern Indian food at its best knows how to find these hidden treasures, and their continued success is marked by their longevity, much to my delight.

Having been to both “newer” restaurants, this one on Service Road is still my preferred choice. I’m not sure what it is, perhaps it’s the fact that it’s located in an area in Penang that has that je ne sais quoi, that quiet reminder of a different time.

Just a few tables occupy the narrow part of the house that was once a family’s living room. The walls are dotted with random drawings and ornaments of Indian aesthetics and the air is thick with the mélange of old Bollywood tunes and spicy aromas coming from the kitchen.

Aside from the additional dishes, you never know what accompaniments you’re going to get on the day, and while I always hope for deep fried bitter gourd and dried pickled chillies, I’m happy to take on whatever they lay upon my plate, or leaf in this case.

At RM5, a vegetarian set is more than enough to fill up for the day but the temptation to sample curried meat is irresistible. Served in perfectly portioned plates for one or even two, additional dishes range from six to 10 ringgit and I usually spend at least five minutes mulling over picking Mutton Masala, Chicken Masala, Chicken Varuval or fried fish.

Another very noteworthy place that came to my attention only after watching the Anthony Bourdain Penang episode (much to my shame) is in the old quarters of George Town.

Like any other proud Penangite, the sight of an entire Bourdain episode dedicated to Penang food made me squeal with delight and thanks to Tony, and my walking, talking Gujerati GPS, we found this place that literally has no name.

Somewhere on Lebuh Acheh leading to Carnavon Street is a house that has no sign whatsoever so the best way to find it is to drive past slowly and scream with excitement when you see it, while trying not to run over any unsuspecting patrons. Or you can just Google banana leaf in Penang and you’re bound to find it somewhere on a food blog.

The narrow pre-war shop fits a few tables and benches that creates a great communal, elbow to elbow dining experience. Apart from the regular banana leaf fare, this place has some special menu items like the sweet Crab Curry which all of a sudden makes chicken and fish seem so boring.

The deep fried fish comes out in intervals on a large tray and anybody who wants a piece just signals the server. You can even order yourself a quail, those adorable little birds that are oh so delicious after they’ve been lovingly rubbed with spices and grilled, or fried.

As usual, when confronted with banana leaf rice and the joy of eating with fingers, there’s just no time or interest for conversation. At least for the first 10 minutes of the meal until I realize that I had been a tad too enthusiastic with the mixture of crab, chicken and fish curry much to my regret later in the day while my friend had against better judgment said yes to more rice.

I paid the price for getting too involved with the crab curry but hell, it was worth it. Ultimately we walked away satisfied that we completed our mission, prepared to resume our conversation and idle away the rest of the hot afternoon, occasionally, absent-mindedly, sniffing our fingers along the way.