KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 20 — There is something immediately comforting about a plate of grilled chicken.
The way you become aware of it before it even appears at your table: the warm, woodsy scent of rosemary; the clear, citrusy hint of lemon.
It comes with a generous serve of creamy mashed potatoes, alongside broccoli and cherry tomatoes that add a welcome freshness and bite.
The chicken itself is tender and well seasoned, while the lemon cuts through the richness of the potatoes, preventing the whole dish from feeling too heavy.
Unfussy and satisfying, I enjoyed this at Lemon Sole Café, a new casual dining restaurant in Taman Desa.
Opened less than six months ago, Lemon Sole has already attracted a steady clientele of neighbourhood residents who enjoy hearty, unpretentious Asian and Western fusion fare.
Consider it Taman Desa’s latest soul food sanctuary.
The name is especially fitting given the profusion of lemons throughout the space, from the striking mural of lemons and lemon blossoms on the feature wall to their use as a seasoning in some dishes.
Which makes it a no-brainer to order the aforementioned rosemary infused lemon chicken. What else on the “something for everyone” menu seems tempting?
Perhaps the ayam percik poke bowl? Or the chicken karaage buttermilk fettuccine?
Choices, choices. But first, something to drink.
We kept it minimalist with our beverages: Americanos, both iced and hot. The better to keep our palate clean and taste the flavours, possibly. Or, you know, because we needed the caffeine.
Whatever the reason, black coffee helps to keep our wits sharp and the conversation flowing. There is an ease in falling back to old patterns, catching up with our lives, sharing triumphs and tribulations equally, whether minor or major.
Life is connection, after all. It’s that simple, really.
The Americano cuts through the richness of the mashed potatoes, which in turn provides a soft, starchy bed for each bite of the lemony grilled chicken. Comforting.
For something more local, the restaurant also offers their signature nasi lemak with either breaded chicken or ayam rendang. We opted for the latter, naturally, in favour of a more complete Malaysian flavour.
The coconut milk infused rice grains are fluffy and fragrant; the chunks of chicken generously sized and tender. More crucially, for fastidious fans of nasi lemak, the fried ikan bilis and peanuts are fresh and crunchy.
Fancy a little bit of everything? Lemon Sole also offers a classic all day breakfast. Expect baked beans and hash browns, sausages and sourdough. A fresh salad balanced with sautéed mushrooms and blistered cherry tomatoes.
Ultimately the food at Lemon Sole is a bit of East meets West — from the Japanese katsu curry to the pesto crusted seared seabass — with plenty of fusion choices along the way. (The bunga kantan aglio olio, for instance, sounds promising.)
Yet for all the variety in the menu, it is perhaps the convivial, community-centric ambience that is what stays with you long after you have paid your bill.
The friendly and helpful servers; the cheeriness of the citrus-accented décor; that sense of home and hospitality bundled in one cosy dining experience.
The latter is best exemplified by the unexpected complimentary bowls of tong sui — sweet red bean soup — which delights the Cantonese in me. A small gesture, sure, but heartwarming all the same.
And in these trying times, every bit of kindness helps.
Lemon Sole Café
Open daily (except Mon closed) 9 am–9 pm
Phone: 03-7972 6163
IG: https://www.instagram.com/lemonsolecafe/
For more food fables and café chronicles, visit Life for Beginners.
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
*Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
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