KUALA LUMPUR Oct 8 — We ordered not one, but two plates of the duck egg char kway teow at Next Gen Kopitiam in Maluri, Cheras.

Now, this isn’t because we were regulars who had tasted these noodles many times before; we were, in fact, first time visitors.

Why then the vote of confidence?

If anything, I have learned to trust the recommendations of my friends. One of whom worked nearby and tells me how she’d drop by Next Gen Kopitiam for her char kway teow fix.

That’s good enough for me.

Though, when we first arrived, having walked a few minutes from the nearby MRT station (parking is, quite frankly, horrendous in this area; public transport will keep you sane), and saw the shop had an air-conditioned area, I couldn’t quite but wonder if my friend’s loyalty is due more to the comfort than the char of the kway teow.

But I have learned to have faith in my friends till proven wrong (and I rarely am).

The char kway teow stall owner, Uncle Wong, runs it alone which is admirable considering how most other stalls at the kopitiam hire helpers.

Back inside (yes, like my friend, we opted for air-conditioned seating inside the shop), our orders of coffee and toast soon arrived.

First, our requisite cups of cham, one hot and one iced: these are rich and kaw, every sip intense and robust.

We checked with each other and agreed that the local coffee was salted, which hits the spot especially with the iced version.

The shop offers the typical range of roti bakar, including the redoubtable butter and kaya, but their signature is a salted egg yolk version called the Golden Toast.

Sounds gimmicky, or at least that’s what we thought at first. The appearance wasn’t the most impressive either; the salted egg yolk topping resembles a monotonous layer of mentaiko.

Looks can be deceiving, of course. Rather than entirely salty, the creamy topping is closer to salty-sweet, which parallels and pairs well with the salted cham.

The crust is lightly toasted but tear into the bread and you’ll realise the crumb is almost steamed, perhaps thanks to the impermeable layer of salted egg yolk cream.

Toasted and fluffy? Now this is a textural contrast we relish.

Have this alone or dipped into the luxurious cham or liquid manna in the form of half boiled eggs.

Time for our “main course” — our duck egg char kway teow. Uncle Wong fries each plate of char kway teow individually so they might arrive separately but you’re assured of freshness, so to speak.

I usually prefer a “dryer” style of char kway teow; Uncle Wong’s version does look wetter than your typical char kway teow.

However, it is still full of wok hei and every strand benefits from both char and a bite that is more tender.

More marvellous than too moist, if you get my meaning.

Yet another reason to keep following the advice and recommendations of my friends; I am convinced they are even bigger gluttons than I am (and that’s high praise indeed!).

Next Gen Kopitiam 新时代茶餐厅

91, Jalan Jejaka 2, 

Maluri, Cheras, 

KL.

Open daily 6.30am-3pm

Phone: 011-2613 6388

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* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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