MELAKA, Oct 6 — Day-trippers and weekend tourists to Melaka flock to Jonker Street for the historical city’s iconic chicken rice balls and Nyonya laksa.

This is almost a given, though some venture a little farther to Tengkera and Bukit Cina too.

But wander beyond the town centre, and you might be surprised to discover pockets of Malaccan food havens.

From unassuming platters of chicken rice balls in Taman Pertam Jaya to unapologetically rich Nyonya laksa in Taman Sin Hoe, those willing to go outside the default tourist trails are often well rewarded with new spots where locals eat.

Which might be how we find ourselves in Ayer Keroh, usually the last neighbourhood before one reaches the highway toll to exit the state (or the first when one enters, depending on how you look at it).

Specifically we are in Melaka’s Ayer Keroh industrial park, hardly the most promising of locations for browsing for bites. Or is it?

Factories are full of employees, all hungry during their lunch breaks and perhaps less than willing to travel too far.

Hungry and no appetite for fussy fare. They crave belly-sticking food, not an Instagram opportunity.

This is the mindset we adopted when our plate of chicken rice arrives. We are at Suukee, a local restaurant smack in the middle of the industrial park, and this is their signature kampung chicken rice.

They have a substance-over-style approach; this dish wouldn’t look out of place in a kopitiam.

Indeed, Suukee used to operate in Ayer Keroh Heights not far away; its new location does feel fancier with laminated menus, air-conditioning and a beverage station that wouldn’t look out of place in an upscale café.

But the food is served as is, without much fanfare. This is a good sign, to be honest; it shows confidence in the quality of what they offer and indeed the kampung chicken tastes naturally sweet, with a tender yet springy bite.

The oil rice is aromatic, and Suukee also offers this in the form of chicken rice balls. These are hefty, decent-sized orbs so be careful how many you attempt as the grains are compacted; your eyes might be bigger than your belly.

What to drink? Well, the coffee menu stays true to Suukee’s kopitiam style origins so you’d be safe ordering any of their kopi variations.

We tried the recommended kopi C with butter, which was suitably creamy and way more caffeinated than we imagined.

If you’re worried about your sleep later in the evening, you can try some of their different chicken soups with red dates.

The old cucumber and the lotus root options are very old school, like grandma’s cooking.

Or simply stick with the bowl of clear soup that comes with your chicken rice; light and healing.

Don’t forget the piquant chilli sauce; it completes every spoonful of chicken rice.

There are other poultry delights, from braised chicken feet with mushrooms to crispy fried chicken intestines. But Suukee isn’t just about chicken rice.

This being Melaka, Peranakan dishes are an essential part of the restaurant’s revamped menu.

Try the Nyonya mee siam with ayam berempah or the Nyonya laksa with Hainanese steamed kampung chicken.

The latter is particularly soul-satisfying. First we got a punchy hit of the laksa’s curry paste and spices. Then there’s the broth itself, full of santan that creamily coats our lips.

What takes it to the next level is the topping of sliced kampung chicken (yes, it’s clear this is their specialty), the springy meat offering a textural and flavour contrast to the more decadent Nyonya laksa.

We finish our meal with some Cantonese style tong sui: the ebony of black glutinous rice and red bean soup and the ivory of the peanut and sticky rice porridge. Nothing like a sweet ending, no?

Suukee Restaurant 速记食坊

Open daily 10am-9pm

Phone: 014-620 6610

FB: SuukeeRestaurant

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* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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