PETALING JAYA, Sept 21 — It’s 5.30pm on a Sunday.

You walk into Lek by Lalachong, which is said to open at 5:30pm, but almost every table is filled with diners. Some are already tucking into their dinner.

Barely a month old, the newcomer is pulling the crowd with its family ties to the 31-year-old Lala Chong Seafood Restaurant (Lala Chong) which built its reputation on fresh seafood.

The face behind Lek is Chrysann Yim, the daughter of Lala Chong’s owner, Yim Sie Chong who picked up the nickname “Lala Chong” for his expertise in handling clams.

She brings a fresh perspective to typical seafood establishments with a menu that blends local favourites with Thai and Indonesian flavours.

On every table, a plate of crabs takes the prized centre spot like a favourite child as it’s their grand opening special: two extra large crabs cooked with your choice of flavour from the menu for RM88, valid until September 30 or as they disclaim in the notice till stocks last.

It’s a steal worth ordering as the sweet flesh is easily extracted from the crab’s body and claws.

However, you won’t get orange roe, as these are not that type of crab. But hey, it’s probably better since the roe is armed with cholesterol that could possibly make you start taking statins.

Familiar choices like salted egg, chili sauce, sweet and sour, buttermilk and kam heong (fragrant sauce) can be ordered. Since Thai-style curry isn’t your typical pairing, that was what we focused on.

It’s a drier curry that may disappoint those looking forward to copious sauce drenching the crabs for dipping their fluffy deep fried mantou buns.

Instead, it’s more like a fluffy omelette scented with a sweeter Thai spice paste stir-fried with the crabs and a jumble of curry leaves, onions and chili.

This may be a neat freak’s dream crab dish, since it doesn’t leave your fingers covered in sauce as you extract every bit of flesh.

Seafood-focused restaurants often dismiss other proteins, making it seem like an unwritten rule not to order side dishes like chicken.

Ayam Goreng Kunyit Sambal Merah (RM20) defies that.

Use your fingers to tear through the golden fried chicken dusted with turmeric powder to discover a juicy chook that will leave other famous chicken brands crowing away.

The secret is probably a freshly slaughtered chicken at its prime since the bone is pristine and not darkened with time.

It doesn’t stop there as next to it is a bright red chunky chilli sauce with head-blowing heat that is strangely reminiscent of ayam gepuk, the darling of the F&B scene that people love to squander their time for in long queues.

Who doesn’t love flame licked seafood and protein, the popular supper dish when night falls?

BBQ Stingray Fish (RM60) hits hard; its time over the fire imparts an unmistakable smokiness clinging to its flesh.

The fish is cut into pieces, allowing the smoky flavour to penetrate better and making it easier for many hands to share communally, and cooked with a spicy sauce, a squeeze of lime and raw onions for freshness.

We also dutifully ordered their signature Superior Soup Lala (RM25) with plump molluscs cradled in thick white shells, swimming in a milky looking broth laced with sesame oil and whole green chilies.

Sharp-eyed diners may notice the disparity in the number of clams if they place the Superior Soup Lala side-by-side with their Lala Kuey Teow (RM30) but the latter dish seems to celebrate the flat ribbons more with its smokiness and eggy sauce, making the clams just a side act.

Greens tend to be an afterthought, more like a chore one orders to appease the elders to be “healthy,” but their Paku Cold Salad with Ikan Bilis from Pulau Pangkor (RM20) is a worthy dish to get the good-for-you fibre you need.

Tangy. Crunchy. These fern fronds get a hit of flavour with the fried ikan bilis lightly coated with sugar for a shattering crispy bite.

Thai Lemongrass Prawn (RM55) is for those tired of working their fingers on the crabs as it’s shell-less and coated in a lemongrass sauce, making it easy to pop in the mouth.

Weekends see overwhelming crowds especially on Sunday nights, when almost every family declares the home kitchen is on holiday.

Thankfully, it was quieter on a Friday evening.

If you sit outside, there’s more space to stretch out and you won’t feel packed in like sardines in a can, especially when a child decides to throw a screaming fit while you’re struggling to eat your noodles.

Gigantic stand fans are also around, blowing air to cool you down as you slowly savour every bit of the sweet flesh from the crabs.

What’s most amazing is how the service staff remain serene amid the chaos while food comes out quickly from the kitchen.

That kind of service is probably why many, including us, will keep returning again and again.

Lek by Lalachong

8, Jalan PJU 1A/42A,

Ara Permata,

Ara Damansara, Petaling Jaya.

Open: 11am to 2.30pm. 5.30pm to 10.30pm. Closed on Tuesdays.

Tel: 011-55520316

Facebook: @Lekseafood

Instagram: @lekseafood_

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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