MELAKA, Sept 10 — Visitors come to Melaka for many reasons but food is a big part of the draw. From Peranakan cuisine to peerless putu piring, there is a treat for every taste bud.

But as I have discovered during recent sojourns to my hometown, these palate parties aren’t limited to Malaccan food.

For instance, who knew that some of the best kha mu or Thai braised pork I’ve had outside of Bangkok could be found just a couple streets away from my childhood home now?

So it’s not entirely a surprise to discover authentic Sarawakian flavours here, specifically at W&L Restaurant Café in the ever-bustling Melaka Raya.

Opened in 2022, W&L is run by a friendly Sarawakian couple, Wilson and Lisa. (The eatery gets its name from the first letters of their names, making this truly a labour of love.)

Located in a corner lot, the décor of the shop evokes the owners’ Sarawakian heritage. While introducing their signature dishes, Wilson also tells us that they return to Sarawak regularly, partly to source local ingredients.

This means their Three-Layer Tea Apong uses proper gula apong (which is a palm sugar) at the base, evaporated milk in the middle, and the requisite tea at the top.

A different take, their signature Three-Layer Tea Pandan features pandan syrup at its base, grassy and fragrant; a nice counterpoint to the sweet creaminess of the evaporated milk and the thick tannins of the tea.

It’s a visual delight, of course; the layers remain distinct until stirred together, and then it’s time to sip rather than to stare.

Those seeking something tart and refreshing, look no further than their Sarawak Tiga Masam, which gets its acidity from a trio of lime juice, lemon juice and salted plum. A thriller thirst quencher, this.

Classic Sarawakian noodles are the go-to order here when it’s time for savoury dishes. I’d say it depends if you prefer your noodles “dry” or “soupy”.

For the former, get their Kuching Kolo Mee. W&L’s version of the famous noodle dish from the Sarawakian capital is sweet and savoury, every strand satisfyingly springy and chewy.

Wilson tells us that their seasoning is made with a base of the barbecue sauce used for char siew mixed with honey. Which explains the mildly red hue of the noodles.

The dish comes with a few sides, from crispy fried wantan wrappers and sliced char siew to tofu and half a hard-boiled egg drizzled with braising gravy.

The same sides also accompany their Sarawak Laksa. Here it’s the rich and spicy coconut milk broth that grabs our attention; we detect hints of galangal and lemongrass, belacan and tamarind. (Maybe some other secret spices too?)

Some fresh shrimp, shredded chicken and rice vermicelli, all garnished with green onions and lime, and you have a dish designed for diehard laksa lovers.

Other Sarawakian delights include Sarawak Lor Mee, Sibu Kampua Mee and a seasonal Special Sarawak Laksa with Tiger Prawns. We definitely have plans to try these when we next visit.

We have a sweet finish with some complimentary green bean soup, which warms my Cantonese heart (or do I mean belly?): nothing like a bowl of tong sui to complete a good meal on a great note!

W&L Restaurant Café

648, Jalan Melaka Raya 10,

Taman Melaka Raya, Melaka.

Open daily (except Mon closed) 11am–3:30pm & 5:30–10pm

Phone: 06-852 2559

For more food fables and café chronicles, visit Life for Beginners.

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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