PETALING JAYA, Sept 7 — When you’re a newcomer to the coffeeshop, what do you do to stand out from the rest?
Invent yet another crazy fusion dish, like the Malaysian classic nasi lemak morphed into a mooncake that will raise everyone’s eyebrows?
No, you stick to your Peranakan heritage and F&B experience to keep introducing different items to capture people’s attention.
This three-month-old stall inside Yuen Feng Kopitiam in busy Kota Damansara offers nasi lemak with a sambal that veers away from the usual spicy-sweet ones everywhere; this one is more fragrant forward with a tangier flavour.
Inspired by owner Melvin Chin’s Peranakan background, the sambal includes a lot of lemongrass and torch ginger flower, which you can smell immediately, and its tangier profile is from asam jawa.
It’s unconventional, but it works if you’re open-minded to a different flavour profile.
Of course, there’s ayam goreng but why be so monotonous in your choices, especially since they offer their fried pork belly and pork rib rendang.
I admit I was sceptical about pairing the nasi lemak with fried pork belly (RM13), but the meat turned out juicy with a slight crunch that complemented the sambal.
Side dishes like kangkung (a must for any Melaka nasi lemak), peanuts, hard-boiled egg, ikan bilis, cucumber and fried cabbage a la ayam gepuk style also support the main dish.
The rice is fluffy with a delicate touch of santan, acting as a worthy partner to that sambal.
One might stop at just the nasi lemak but Chin elevates it with his satay and BBQ items.
It’s not your ordinary satay but Satay Babi (RM10 for five sticks) including options with two types of intestines (big and small) for those who relish offal.
Appearances are deceiving here; I thought the satay looked dry and unappetising without any fat speared on the stick but they were lightly marinated and juicy bites.
Dip it in the peanut sauce made from scratch — which includes a dollop of pineapple puree lacing that creamy sauce with a touch of sweetness — and you have a winner worth a second order.
Your meaty adventure has just begun as you discover their BBQ menu of pork, chicken, beef and lamb skewers.
There’s also BBQ pork belly, a whole chicken leg, and a cheese hot dog to sink your teeth into.
BBQ Pork Skewers (RM12 for 3 sticks) featured chunks of meat interspersed with lard to keep them juicy.
The meat gets a slight flavour from the ginger and garlic marinade but you mainly taste the chilli powder sprinkled over the skewer.
You can customise the spiciness level when you order by asking for the chilli powder to be placed on the side or sprinkled liberally for a burning sensation.
Later I found out Chin uses pork sourced from Brazil, as importers switched to this supply chain due to costs.
The meat is far superior to locally sourced pork, offering a rich flavour and good marbling from the higher ratio of intramuscular fat, resulting in moist bites when grilled.
Chin’s BBQ menu wasn’t his first idea; he started out with Portuguese ikan bakar but it didn’t sell well, so he was forced to pivot.
He also operates the MJ Noodle stall next to the nasi lemak stall; his wife runs it using his recipes, including laksa inspired by his heritage.
Nasi Lemak Melaka Stall @ Yuen Fong Kopitiam
Kota Damansara, Petaling Jaya.
Open daily: 7am to 4:30pm, 6:30pm to 10pm.
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
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