KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 6 — When I was younger, in my early twenties, my party trick was boring dates with facts like “You know, tempura actually originated with Portuguese Jesuits arriving in Japan”.
It was almost always met with a flat “Wow, that’s so interesting.” Occasionally: “What’s a Jesuit?”
And now, reader, you find yourself on the receiving end. Peixinhos da horta, a Portuguese dish of battered and deep-fried vegetables – usually green beans – is widely seen as the precursor to Japanese tempura.
It was often eaten during Lent and the Ember days, periods of fasting and prayer when Catholics abstained from meat and ate vegetables or fish instead.
The Latin word used for these holy “times” or “time periods” was tempora; four centuries later, tempura is as recognisably Japanese as sushi and ramen, and is as native to Japan as laksa is to Malaysia.
I say all this to say that how “authentic” or “Japanese” something is shouldn’t be the only yardstick by which to assess Japanese speciality restaurants — even when they’re a franchise from Japan.
Take Tendon Kohaku. Founded in Japan in 2008, the tempura chain is now based out of Singapore, with outposts in the US, Canada, Australia, and the Philippines — but not a single one left in the country it came from.
Its Malaysian branch, originally in IOI Mall Damansara, recently reopened in Taman Tun Dr Ismail.
Tendon Kohaku specialises in tendon — short for tempura and donburi, or rice bowl.
These are single-bowl meals: tempura, usually served alongside soba or udon, adapted to be served over rice instead.
It is designed to be served quickly at an affordable price, typically targeted at office workers who are looking for a hearty, wallet-friendly meal.
There is a distinct difference in the batter for tendon. Serving crispy, delicate tempura over rice is a one-way ticket to steamed, soggy batter, so the batter in tendon pieces is typically thicker to account for the moisture.
In addition, tendon is drizzled with a sweet, sticky tare, which flavours the rice and tempura pieces, but further moistens the batter.
While tempura in any good tendon is still reasonably crispy, it won’t reach the airy heights of counter-seat tempura restaurants, where the tempura essentially steams inside a very light batter that shatters like glass in the mouth.
It isn’t a failure of technique. It’s a different technique, built for a different dish.
Tendon Kohaku’s signature offering, the Kohaku Tendon Set (RM24.90), comes with two pieces of prawn, alongside squid, crabstick, pumpkin, baby corn, French beans, shiitake mushroom and a chicken breast.
Each set comes with pickles, miso soup and chawanmushi. There’s a choice between original and spicy flavours for the tare; I opted for the former, which is admittedly quite sweet.
Each piece of tempura had a thicker batter as expected – think of the best fish and chips batter ever – but I’m most tickled by the inclusion of a chicken breast, which really drove home the point that this is about offering satisfaction without requiring sacrifice.
That said, should you be in an indulgent mood, there is the Premium Tendon Set (RM49.90).
Many of the same ingredients feature, but this is “elevated” by the inclusion of anago or conger eel, the saltwater counterpart to unagi.
It is a classic tempura seafood, prized for its sweet and soft flesh.
However, despite acknowledging that the thicker batter is a specific choice for tendon, I do feel it hinders the experience of appreciating anago.
The softness of its flesh is masked by the batter. But this was still a delicious specimen.
There was also a deep-fried boiled egg, which is a common feature in speciality tendon joints but a first for me.
Unfortunately, the yolk was totally overcooked after the fry. A tad disappointing.
The overcooked egg was a bit of a shame, but perhaps it isn’t the main point. Kohaku’s tendon is not the tempura you would get at a counter in Tokyo, nor is it trying to be.
It is a hearty bowl of rice and fried things, engineered to be filling, affordable and immediately satisfying.
In other words, it is food that has changed to suit the people eating it — which, historically speaking, is what sells and stands the test of time.
Tendon Kohaku TTDI
153, Jalan Aminuddin Baki,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.
Open daily, 11.30am–2pm, 5.30–9.30pm.
Tel: 03–7731 3225
Facebook: Tendon Kohaku Malaysia Official
Instagram: @tendonkohakumy.ttdi
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
*Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
*Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more unsolicited tempura babble.
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