KUALA LUMPUR, March 4 — With a name like Volcano Curry House, one would expect to tread carefully when ordering the curry mee at this stall inside Restoran Hoi Sum to avoid any violent eruptions, right?

Instead, this Ipoh-style curry mee feels more like a sleeping volcano that sputters a mild heat rather than a fiery one, leaving space for your tongue to savour its fragrance, derived more from ground herbs and spices than from curry powder.  

The curry is thick, signalling a heavy use of santan even though it lacks the distinct sweet fragrance.

A touch of evaporated milk also gives the curry a smoother consistency.

On its own, the curry is the hero here but curry mee fanatics know that a standout bowl means every element inside needs to pull its own weight to push it to greatness. 

With so many topping choices, ranging from traditional roast pork and char siu, one can go a little crazy with lala clams, fish fillet, duck blood cubes, seafood, fish cake and fresh mushrooms. 

Volcano Curry Noodles (RM25 for a single portion) is the quickest way to sample a large chunk of their toppings, which include seafood, roast meats, and a generous handful of tiny cockles. 

What lets down the flavour of the curry mee is that the ingredients though decent just don’t match the level of that curry. 

It’s not a total failure, though, because once it pivots into a Curry Chee Cheong Fun (RM7), the curry shines, making you wish for more of it coating the silky steamed rice flour rolls. 

Seconds, please!

The chee cheong fun also receives the Ipoh treatment with mushroom sauce and you can add-on from their spread of yong liew, stuffed with fish paste that gives a bouncier bite. 

Pick up the sar kok liew, that distinct Ipoh riff on a hash brown with finely minced yam bean and fish paste for a savoury crunch to your meal. 

The affable lady owner manages both stalls, which are spread apart, with the help of her workers. 

One visible difference in her curry dotted with oil, is that the coconut milk’s aroma is muted because she uses commercially sourced coconut milk; its quality can differ depending on the factory’s source of coconuts.

Perhaps a better pairing would be just the curry mee with long beans, brinjal and bean sprouts with a side bowl of their yong liew, allowing you to savour that thick, smooth curry to the last drop.  

Volcano Curry House

Restoran Hoi Sum Kopitiam

48, Jalan Hujan Emas 4, 

Overseas Union Garden, Kuala Lumpur

Open: 7am to 8pm. Closed on Thursday

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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