PETALING JAYA, Jan 18 — New year, new openings. A few doors down from The Ship in Damansara Utama is Shaohun, a brand-new spot specialising in two Hong Kong staples: Cantonese roasted meats and Teochew braised dishes. 

The Hong Kong theme is not merely an en vogue choice; one of the founding partners from the neighbouring Sheung Wan Noodle House, located just up the road, is involved here.

Shaohun is Mandarin for “burning soul”, typically used to describe something so compelling or moving that it stirs the soul. 

It is quite the claim, and one I intended to investigate thoroughly. As part of the Cantonese siu mei spread, Shaohun offers roast goose and roast suckling pig, two typically luxe, large-format dishes, especially the latter. 

However, with the Roasted Goose with Rice (RM48) and Roasted Baby Pork with Rice (RM68), it is possible to enjoy them without needing a group. 

It is strange to say, however, that in both sets, which offered equally impressive roasted goose (juicy, unctuous) and roasted suckling pig (crispy, fatty), the plain white rice was the standout. 

The menu notes that it is sourced from Heilongjiang, China’s northernmost province, famed for producing japonica rice. 

The short, sticky grains delivered a distinct texture, firmly in “so good you can eat it on its own” territory.

Roast goose or duck with lai fun is a classic Hong Kong pairing, but once again, the carbohydrate proves the star. 

Here, the Special Rice Noodle/Lai Fun (RM6) stands out on its own. Chewy noodles, a hearty broth, and bits of preserved vegetables meant I was more than happy slurping this down on its own, no goose or duck required. 

For a broader taste of the siu mei selection, the Mixed Roasted Dish (RM48) offers four different roasted meats, though the char siu and siu yuk underwhelmed. 

Instead, the chicken in rose-flavoured soy sauce emerged as the highlight, each bite perfumed with the heady aroma of rose wine. 

There is also an entire section of Chinese-style skewers, which seems more targeted towards those booking the private rooms upstairs.

Ultimately, however, the true stars are the Teochew braised dishes. Whether opting for the Mixed Chinese Brine platter (RM42) or individual offal items such as Pork Intestines (RM28) or Duck Tongue (RM32), the appeal lies in the sweet-savoury braising stock, imbued with the deep character of five spice. 

The textures, particularly of the pork belly and pork head meat, warrant special mention: the belly is soft, with fat that remains firm and lightly chewy, while the head meat is tender with occasional, pleasing snaps of cartilage. 

Even “foie gras” is offered, though it requires advance booking. Goose liver braised in this way is unfamiliar to me, but it is reason enough to return sooner rather than later.

ShaoHun烧魂

53, Jalan SS 21/56B, 

Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya.

Open daily, 11am-9pm

Tel: 011-1599 6388

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and occasionally self-deprecating humour.