KUALA LUMPUR, Jan 5 — The neighbourhood of Taman Bukit Maluri is an under-rated treasure trove of casual Chinese eateries, particularly in the rows of shops and stalls off Jalan Burung Jentayu. 

The outermost row sits perpendicular to a neighbouring Guan Yin temple, and by day, dim sum from Tuck Kee is a common choice for the working crowd that passes through. 

But on any given night, the most popular joint here is Restoran Yuan Kee, a dai chow that locals and residents from neighbouring Menjalara and Kepong alike flock to for simple, low-frills Chinese cooking. 

So popular is Yuan Kee that it has expanded to occupy several adjoining lots, even taking over some of the space previously held by Tuck Kee (as indicated by banners that have remained untouched for years), to accommodate its sizable crowds.

Like any dai chow, the offerings here are wide and varied, but the fried beef hor fun, or ngau yuk hor, is a signature that Malay Mail has previously covered at Yuan Kee’s second location in Bandar Sri Damansara, when it operated under the name Restoran Wayne Innovation Cuisine. 

It remains excellent, but there is much more to Yuan Kee than a single noodle dish. Another signature item is the fried sea cucumber (RM50), a curious preparation for a classic Chinese delicacy more commonly associated with a slippery texture. 

Here, the segments are aggressively wok-fried with large bits of dried shrimp and a touch of cili padi. 

The result is spongy pieces coated in a lively saltiness, with striking textural contrast between the crispy har mai and the taut, springy sea cucumber. 

It is a dish that belies Yuan Kee’s casual zinc-roof setting, and not only because of the prized nature of the main ingredient.

If a slippery, slightly chewy texture is what you’re after, look no further than the braised beef tendon (RM35). 

Yuan Kee’s version is pale in colour and largely sweet from the generous use of carrot, though this is tempered by a liberal hand with black pepper, which gives the thick, gloopy sauce a sharp edge. 

On the opposite end of the texture spectrum, the garlic fried pork (RM25) is, as one might expect, thoroughly garlicky. 

Thick-cut pieces of fatty pork belly are fried to a crisp, reddish exterior while the interior remains soft and moist. 

Yet the allium’s characteristic pungency is mellowed into a gentle sweetness, and there even seems to be a faint touch of nam yu lending savouriness.

Fish is often a central part of meals at places like this, and Yuan Kee is no different. The menu lists many types of fish prepared in a variety of ways, with an array of sauces and toppings, but we settled on black pomfret steamed with tofu, tomatoes and pickled mustard greens (RM68). 

Rather than the more common thin, watery “soup”, this came in a thickened sauce that clung to the fish, smothering each bite with tangy flavour. 

It is a faithful version of a very familiar dish, one that more than gets the job done.

Most of these dishes are also available at Yuan Kee’s Bandar Sri Damansara outlet, alongside more intricate and elaborate offerings that better suit its air-conditioned setting, complete with private rooms. 

For Chinese New Year, that location is offering three set menus priced from RM738 nett up to RM1,788 nett, with bookings available across four time slots, two each for lunch and dinner.

Restoran Yuan Kee

39, Jalan Burung Jentayu, 

Taman Bukit Maluri, 

Kuala Lumpur.

Open Thursday to Tuesday, 11am-9.30pm

Tel: 016-653 3365

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and occasionally self-deprecating humour.