PETALING JAYA, June 6 — What do Tia and Tamera, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, and a curry laksa stall in Sea Park run by sisters have in common?

Besides the obvious, not much, but I just wanted a silly little introduction to the sister duo that serves up my favourite bowl of KL-style curry laksa out of Restoran Sun Fatt Kee.

Found in the same coffee shop where the popular night-time Nasi Lemak Bumbung operates out of, they call themselves Sisters Curry Laksa, and it’s quickly apparent why.

The lovely ladies who run the stall are siblings and bear an uncanny resemblance to each other.

Plastered all over their stall are a helpful cardboard price list, and weathered newspaper clippings from over the years, most of which are about them, with a curious exception: an extract on declining cockle harvests.

It’s only curious until you eat their curry laksa veritably loaded with fresh, plump and juicy cockles, by which point your eyes are opened to why people go cuckoo crazy for it, despite the RM3 charge for extra.

They are an acquired taste, and even if you aren’t a fan of cockles, there’s plenty else to enjoy about the curry laksa here.

A small portion with additional cockles (RM12) comes with all the fixings: your preferred noodle, chicken strips, tofu pok, long beans, bean sprouts, sambal, a lime for squeezing and the aforementioned cockles.

You can ask for poached chicken pieces (with the skin on, yum!) in place of the strips, as is my preference. In addition, you can ask to "kar liu” or add ingredients, and the additional charges will vary accordingly.

It is absolutely essential to get extra sambal, as the version here tickles the palate in all the right places: spicy, savoury, a little sour and extremely well-balanced.

On to the main event: the curry.

True to form, it lacks the white, milky appearance of Penang white curry.

Instead, you’re greeted with a deep reddish orange that’s approaching scarlet, with a marbled appearance from the lighter specks created by just a touch of santan.

Thick but not particularly creamy, full-bodied, savoury and with heat that is more middling than hot, this ride to flavourtown is propelled by the curry’s extremely complex spice base.

Helped by some of the best cockles in town, a bowl of this stuff is remarkably satisfying.

Eating here is most definitely a breakfast or early lunch affair, as they close at two in the afternoon, unlike the famous 4am Curry Mee stall a few roads over, which we’ve previously covered.

If the market across the road is open, get a bit of siew yoke to go with your order of curry laksa to really spruce things up.

You won’t regret it.

Sisters Curry Laksa Stall

Restoran Sun Fatt Kee

2, Jalan 21/11b, Sea Park, Petaling Jaya, Selangor

Open daily, 7am - 2pm. Closed on Thursdays.

Tel: 012-258 3452

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