MUNICH, May 27 — Aside from Oktoberfest, beloved of beer lovers around the world, Munich is probably best known for the nearby Cinderella Castle. “Nearby” being a relative term as Schloß Neuschwanstein, the castle that’s inspiration for that iconic Disney structure, is more than two hours away from Munich!
Few realise that there is a royal abode far closer to the Bavarian capital, one that is quite a fairytale experience too. Schloß Nymphenburg is a baroque palace located in the western part of Munich, only five kilometres from the heart of town. Formerly the summer residence of Bavarian monarchs, Nymphenburg Palace is a magic kingdom waiting to be discovered.
To get here, we first travel to Munich by train. The busy München Hauptbahnhof is where most travellers first congregate in the city centre, whether they’ve arrived by bus or rail. Taking the S1 or S8 S-Bahn after flying into the Flughafen is a chance to catch parts of Bavaria that aren’t the scenic Alps. The real Bavaria, so to speak.
From the München Hauptbahnhof, we take the No. 17 tram towards Amalienburgstraße. In less than half an hour, we arrive at the Schloß Nymphenburg stop. Getting off our tram, we observe other visitors taking a slow walk or cycling towards the palace entrance. Everyone is in shorts and loose-fitting T-shirts; the better to enjoy the summer sun.
From a distance, the palace shines like a tiny jewel as a long tree-lined canal leads the way. Schloß Nymphenburg, which means “the castle of nymphs” in German, was commissioned by the Bavarian Elector Ferdinand Maria and his wife, Henriette Adelaide of Savoy to commemorate the birth of their son, Maximilian II Emanuel, in 1662.
As we get closer, the palace rises where the sky meets the water. The central pavilion housing the Steinerner Saal (or Stone Hall) is connected to two smaller pavilions to the north and south by a series of galleries. With its baroque façades and shiny gilding, there is a sense of opulence. But there is more, we realise, beyond the palace, where the green spaces begin.
The English fashion of the gardens (more like a huge park, as we would soon realise) was a 19th century conceit of Friedrich Ludwig von Sckell, who had also designed the expansive Englischer Garten in the centre of Munich. Some Baroque elements, such as the Grand Parterre with its formal splendour, remain.
As we stroll towards the marble cascade in the west, the fairytale aspect of the palace give way to a more mythological ambience. Stone statues of gods and goddesses from Greek and Roman fables adorn the landscape; hit at the right angle by rays of sunlight and they’re legends come to life.
We are in awe, surrounded by the gods of Olympus. The princely Pluto, lord of the underworld, looms darkly in one corner. In another, the fleet-footed Hermes leads a row of divine statues. Far more gruesome is the sight of terrible Saturn devouring one of his sons for fear of his children supplanting him.
Alas, prophecies always find a way to come true: Saturn’s sixth child, rescued at birth, did exactly that, supplanting his monstrous father. A majestic statue of that child, Jupiter, still stands proudly today in the park, armed with his golden lightning rods.
Even without these statues of deities and demigods, it’s easy to imagine nymphs dancing here. Wood nymphs and water nymphs, sprites that celebrate the seemingly neverending summer. A profusion of flowers in the meadow add colour and life. Die Narzisse (daffodils), das Gänseblϋmchen (daisies) and der Löwenzahn (dandelions) — I remember when remembering the names of these blumen was part of learning Deutsch as a student.
All the flora can’t help but entice bees and butterflies to gather, in search of pollen and nectar. Other insects, such as dragonflies and mayflies (both sure signs of summer), hover the garden ponds. These or their fat larvae inevitably become food for the waterfowl. Ducks play in the water. Shy moorhens hide in the rushes while a braver family of swans entertain visitors, perhaps hoping for a crumb or two.
Beyond the ponds and lakes, spotting other animals requires a more attentive eye and some luck. Diligent squirrels scamper around gathering beechnuts and hazelnuts to hoard for winter. They best beware the pine martens and foxes looking for a meal too. Sociable waxwings and reclusive tawny owls alike call this paradise home.
There are many paths to investigate, most of them circuitous so there’s no fear of getting lost. Deeper into the woods, away from the tourists busy taking pictures in front of the palace, there more secluded sections for some solitude. A refuge. Mature trees offer shade and park benches a place to rest and read.
The beauty of summer is the way the hours seem to stretch forever.
We’re in no rush; we can’t be. For the park surrounding Nymphenburg Palace, considered one of the green lungs of Munich, is truly vast. Covering an area of 200 hectares, the park offers other attractions including the Badenburger See (Badenburg Lake), the verdant Löwental valley, as well as woods and canals aplenty. We could spend all day here and never finish exploring.
It’s quite enough for one to truly wish for a real neverending summer!
Nymphenburg Palace
Schloß Nymphenburg 1, Munich, Germany
April to October 15: Open daily 9am-6pm; admission €11.50 (RM54)
October to March: Open daily 10am-4pm; admission €8.50 (RM40)
