KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 20 — With seafood noodles, it's the fresh ingredients that are usually the star of the bowl. 

At this stall in Kepong though, the stand-out is their light, appetising broth with the fragrance of Chinese rice wine and herbs.

When combined together with their seafood and pork choices, it becomes a well-executed bowl of comfort that hits the spot.

For an addictive, appetising bowl of mixed seafood noodles, try their spicy version with a fragrance of curry leaves and lemongrass.
For an addictive, appetising bowl of mixed seafood noodles, try their spicy version with a fragrance of curry leaves and lemongrass.

The origin of the stall is a humble one. Back in 2018, Gary Yong and Esther Lai decided to start the stall just to add variety to their coffee shop's offerings.

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As Esther explained, there were so many eateries around Kepong that it was hard to attract stalls.

Previously, the duo ran their own photography studio taking portraits. About 11 years ago, the coffee shop was started by Gary's father who took early retirement after working as an airline steward.

When they introduced seafood items this year, they only offered clams but now they have expanded their offerings.
When they introduced seafood items this year, they only offered clams but now they have expanded their offerings.

However, two years after it opened Gary's mother fell ill so the couple stepped in to help manage the coffee shop's operations.

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In the beginning, all they sold was a simple bowl of fish ball noodles. What won over their customers was the addition of minced meat and an abundance of lard fritters together with fishballs and fishcake slices sourced from Sekinchan.

This was served with a light broth made from ikan bilis and chicken bones. Later, they added pork noodles served with thinly sliced pork belly.

On occasion, they will get special items like the seven star grouper fish that is paired with clams (left). The stall started with serving only fish ball noodles that has minced meat and crispy lard fritters (right).
On occasion, they will get special items like the seven star grouper fish that is paired with clams (left). The stall started with serving only fish ball noodles that has minced meat and crispy lard fritters (right).

Pork noodles is served with thinly sliced pork belly and pork balls with a light pork bone broth laced with rice wine.
Pork noodles is served with thinly sliced pork belly and pork balls with a light pork bone broth laced with rice wine.

In January this year, they introduced clams. The reason was simple... they both loved to eat seafood! As demand grew, they added more seafood varieties.

You will be surprised but the couple aren't experienced cooks. What they have though is their keen tastebuds honed from being enthusiastic foodies.

Armed with that knowledge, they experimented with their dishes, tweaking them until they nailed that taste they wanted.

Each bowl of noodles is cooked in individual pots upon order by Gary.
Each bowl of noodles is cooked in individual pots upon order by Gary.

Even though it's just one stall, you will find that they serve three types of broth. "As we like to eat, we like to be different," explained Esther.

There is a clear broth for the fishball noodles and a slightly more hearty pork bone broth for their pork noodles. They also have a seafood broth made from prawn shells and fish bones.

Much work goes into the making of each broth. For example, the delicate seafood broth that anchors their popular seafood noodles, took many tries before it satisfied their own fussy palates.

Depending on availability, you can sometimes score whelks at the stall.
Depending on availability, you can sometimes score whelks at the stall.

Even the rice wine used for the broths is different. For the seafood broth, they use a special blend, mixed by them for a lighter taste while the pork broth uses a stronger-tasting rice wine.

To date, they offer seven varieties of noodles, with a price range of RM6.50 to RM8.50 for the fishball and pork noodles. The seafood noodles start from RM15 and can go up to RM18 for the mixed seafood noodles which comes with a large prawn, cuttlefish, tilapia fish slices, crabmeat surimi and bamboo clams.

Seafood like prawns, clams and fish are prepped for cooking.
Seafood like prawns, clams and fish are prepped for cooking.

An unusual Three Treasures bowl offers the best of both worlds: thinly sliced pork belly and kidney with clams with their signature seafood broth that has dong quai, wolfberries and shredded ginger.

Don't miss out on their spicy seafood broth either. It's not a curry nor tom yam... just a spicy, fragrant broth concocted by the couple as per their tastebuds.

You will be hooked on the addictive, appetising broth with a lovely fragrance from curry leaves and lemongrass from the chilli paste they use.

A stronger tasting rice wine is added to the pork noodles, upon request to give it a fragrant aroma.
A stronger tasting rice wine is added to the pork noodles, upon request to give it a fragrant aroma.

They also add tiny dried prawns to the paste, which gives the broth a richer taste. A dash of evaporated milk balances out the slight burn.

It's not overly spicy to burn your tongue, just the way that the couple like their spicy seafood noodles to taste. If you prefer a spicier kick, order that so it can be cooked accordingly.

With your choice of toppings, you can select from a variety of noodles from the thicker type of beehoon, crystal bee hoon, lai fun and the usual kuey teow, mee and loh shue fan offerings.

The Three Treasures bowl is an unusual but delicious combination of pork belly, kidney and clams with their seafood broth. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
The Three Treasures bowl is an unusual but delicious combination of pork belly, kidney and clams with their seafood broth. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

As each bowl of noodles is cooked individually, you need to wait at least 10 to 15 minutes once you place your order.

During peak hours, like lunch or weekends, the wait time can go up to 30 minutes or more. Previously it was much longer but with three stoves cooking at one time and an increase in workforce, they have managed to cut down the wait time.

On weekends, there are specials. Usually, these pop up at least once or twice in a month. It could be huge freshwater prawns. Or even pork ribs and tendon served with their pork bone broth. Anything rolls with the couple.

Look for this corner coffeeshop at Bandar Menjalara, Kepong for the stall.
Look for this corner coffeeshop at Bandar Menjalara, Kepong for the stall.

There's also an effort to bring in seasonal seafood. Like that day we visited, they had whelks and seven star garoupa fish. In August, it was huge juicy clams.

One time they had mantis prawns or even yabbies. Stalk their Facebook page to see what they are serving. It's hard to resist the great pictures detailing each bowl beautifully.

Yong Ken Stall, Restoran New Neighbour, 33, Jalan 9/62A, Bandar Menjalara, Kepong, KL. Open: 8am to 2.30pm. Closed alternate Wednesdays of the month. Tel: 012-2050371. https://www.facebook.com/NewNeighbourBistro/