PUCHONG, May 6 — Hakka lui cha is served with an aromatic green broth which you pour over the rice. But what happens when you combine the skills of a wok master like Wong Kwai Fang and his signature lui cha....you get fried lui cha rice!

It doesn’t stop there, as his stall in Puchong also puts a clever spin on fried noodles (beehoon, hor fun and loh shee fun), mimicking the lui cha flavours perfectly.

Wong Kwai Fang started a fried noodles stall that has now branched out to offer Hakka lui cha
Wong Kwai Fang started a fried noodles stall that has now branched out to offer Hakka lui cha

Since he was 22 years old, Wong has worked in various tai chows around his hometown in Kluang, Johor. About 10 years ago, he relocated to Kuala Lumpur as his wife is from here.

He decided to take over this stall in Puchong, retaining its previous name, Penang Noodle House but you won’t find Penang eats here. Instead, order from a menu of fried noodles that includes classics like Cantonese fried noodles and Hokkien noodles.

Advertisement

In the early days, he would serve lui cha once a week. As people around the area slowly accepted the vegetarian dish, he started to bring it out more frequently. Eventually it became a permanent fixture.

The traditional Hakka dish is said to originate from the Hor Poh clan. The lui cha served here follows a recipe inherited from Wong’s mother who had learnt  it from a Hakka clan. Wong tells us he has tweaked the recipe, making the meatless dish more acceptable to the Puchong residents. For instance, you won’t find that inherent bitterness present in the traditional recipe.

The key to the lui cha’s tastiness lies in the bright green coloured broth. This is made by mixing it with a blended paste of mint leaves and tea leaves.

Advertisement

The traditional Hakka lui cha is served with a variety of chopped greens, firm beancurd, toasted peanuts and preserved radish (left). You can opt for your choice of noodles, like this fine beehoon fried with lui cha paste and vegetables (right)
The traditional Hakka lui cha is served with a variety of chopped greens, firm beancurd, toasted peanuts and preserved radish (left). You can opt for your choice of noodles, like this fine beehoon fried with lui cha paste and vegetables (right)

A spoonful of toasted peanuts gives the lui cha, a nice crunch
A spoonful of toasted peanuts gives the lui cha, a nice crunch

Each bowl is served with stir fried sweet potato leaves, long beans, choy poh or preserved radish, spinach and cabbage. You also have stir fried firm beancurd cut into small cubes and toasted peanuts.

A lot of work goes into cleaning and slicing the vegetables so work starts from as early as 5am. Wong is assisted by two foreign workers who take care of this laborious work. Just before serving the lui cha for the day, Wong will saute the ingredients to ensure everything is fresh.

The preparation work is tedious, as the vegetables have to be washed, chopped finely and fried just before serving
The preparation work is tedious, as the vegetables have to be washed, chopped finely and fried just before serving

About three years ago, he put his own spin to his signature lui cha.... by frying it. It also made perfect sense since he had already mastered how to fry noodles. He estimates that about 70 per cent of his customers still prefer the traditional dish.

Occasionally, customers will order the fried variants.

Using the blended lui cha paste, he adds it in with the noodles or rice. It takes a super hot fire and his mastery to toss all the ingredients in the hot wok back and forth, until it’s just cooked to perfection. Most importantly, he also manages to achieve the “breath of wok” or that slight smokiness desired in Chinese cooking that makes food appetising.

Find the stall at the end of the restaurant (left). Wong employs two workers to help him pluck and cut the fresh vegetables (right)
Find the stall at the end of the restaurant (left). Wong employs two workers to help him pluck and cut the fresh vegetables (right)

This corner coffeeshop is popular with residents as it’s near two banks
This corner coffeeshop is popular with residents as it’s near two banks

I think the dish works. It retains the flavours of lui cha. Eat it immediately and breathe in the deliciousness, hot from the wok. Don’t be fooled by its appearance, as with every spoonful, I can taste the same elements. If you like a mild chilli kick, it’s served with a non-oily sambal blended from dried chillies and onions.

For those who may find it a little dry, pair it with a bowl of their lui cha broth. Or follow what his regulars do, order a bowl of wantans from stall  next to his that sells wantan noodles, for something different.

Penang Noodle House Stall

Xin Jing Restaurant, No. 1, Jalan Kenari 2, Bandar Puchong Jaya, Puchong, Selangor

Open: 8am to 2.30pm

Closed alternate Mondays