SINGAPORE, Sept 8 — Thanks to the low exchange rate for the ringgit, Singaporeans have been making more plans to go across the border for quick getaways or weekend jaunts.
Some, such as machinist Lim Eng Huat and his buddies, say the lower rate is a great incentive to make more “makan trips” up north.
“We usually do it once every two to three months,” he said. “Usually, it’s over the weekend. Someone will pick one place, then we go there on Saturday, have lunch and dinner. The next day, we have breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. Then we come back to Singapore.”
Of course, many people have their favourite Malaysian destinations when it comes to food. But none have as much allure as Penang. The island’s many charms are well-documented, and with the ringgit’s exchange rate at new lows, that’s more reason to hotfoot it to this north-western corner of Malaysia for a bit of culture and a lot of amazing hawker food.
Think about it: What was already considered cheap (to Singaporeans accustomed to paying prices that we have in “the world’s most expensive city”) is now cheaper than ever. But for avid foodies, a jaunt to Penang requires some planning and a lot of focus.
If only because the options are too numerous to consider: Penang char kway teow, assam laksa, Nyonya popiah, Indian roti canai, nasi kandar, ice kachang, chendol, nutmeg juice, orh luak, kway teow soup, Nyonya kueh, lor bak ... this list goes on.
So where do you get the best versions? One solution is to follow the crowds and snag the first available seat on Gurney Drive. It is hard to beat Gurney’s sheer variety of stalls (the muah chee and apom pancakes are must-haves) and its lively, smoky atmosphere — even if some say that has become something of a tourist trap.
The other solution is to plan your days around the eating. Hire yourselves a personal driver or full-day taxi service, hand him the following list of eating places and let him plan the day’s route.
You can intersperse your itinerary with stops at museums such as the Pinang Peranakan Mansion or the Made In Penang Interactive Museum. Or stroll around George Town to take in the fantastic street art.
Here, we’ve come up with a basic list of where to start on eat-around-Penang.
Suffice it to say, these are but the tip of the very delicious iceberg, but it should keep you busy for a day or two (you can always ask Penang’s friendly and food-loving locals for more recommendations while you’re there).
Chee cheong fan and a hearty breakfast Kedai Kopi Seow Fong Lye (Lorong Macalister)
The buzz begins in the early mornings, when hungry hordes descend on this humble coffee shop for what is widely regarded as Penang’s finest chee cheong fan. Silky and slightly chewy, and served with a seriously thick and pungent sweet sauce spiked with fermented prawn paste, the wait for these simple, steamed rolls can be long (up to 30 minutes) so make a meal of it by ordering a plate of the wok-hei-scented char kway teow and cubes of kaya and butter toast with half-boiled eggs served in a coffee cup as well.
Penang laksa Pasar Air Itam Laksa (Air Itam Pasar on Jalan Pasar)
You can’t come to Penang and not eat this. Even Anthony Bourdain has visited this place. The wizened owner of this stall serves a beautifully balanced laksa loaded with flaked fish and shredded lettuce, mint and cucumber. He is also lavish with the prawn paste that gives his laksa bold, brassy flavours. The set-up is basic at best, but the taste more than makes up for it.
Penang char kway teow Sister’s Char Kway Teow (183 Macalister Road)
The other must-have noodle dish. Large, crunchy prawns, a pinch of fresh crabmeat and noodles tossed in a wok with soya, garlic and cockles. As far as many locals who grew up in the area are concerned, this stall serves the quintessential Penang char kway teow.
Orh luak (oyster omelette) Seng Thor Coffee Shop (160 Lebuh Carnarvon)
The not-so-secret step to this insanely decadent orh luak is double-frying. The batter is first stir-fried to break it up into crisp morsels, before it is deep fried to really seal in the garing (crispness). A bowlful of oysters is tossed in at the last moment so they are not overcooked. “This is definitely something that you want to try at least once,” said financial assistant Marsha Lim. “It may not be ideal for those watching their diet — but it’s not as if you come here every day.”
Chendol from Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul (21 Keng Kwee Street)
This establishment has almost 25,000 followers on Facebook, and netizens have been gushing about the desserts here. “I prefer to have the cendul ... at this cafe while relaxing in the cool breeze. Been here a few times before and it still serves good dishes,” wrote James Nojim, while Desmond Foo said this was “a pit stop you must visit”.
There are actually two chendol stores on opposite sides of this narrow street and there are no prizes for guessing which is Famous Teochew Chendul. Clue: Look for the snaking queue. But don’t worry, the queue moves quickly, so you can definitely get to slurp down the thin, icy coconut-and-gula-melaka-soup with its generous serving of supple green “worm” jelly, with enough time to go back for seconds.
Popiah basah and other delicious diet busters Padang Brown Hawker Centre (Jalan Perak)
Padang Brown has been synonymous with good street food. Any Penangite worth his salt will know which padang you are talking about when you mention “the Padang”. It underwent renovation late last year, but regulars say the new look hasn’t affected the quality of the food. People come here for the acclaimed popiah basah (fresh spring rolls filled with tasty stewed bangkwang — or jicama — and crabmeat, served with on a flavour-packed pool of crab stock).
But try the amazing Nyonya kueh (be prepared to queue for treats such as the kueh salat), sweet corn-filled apom balik (what Singaporeans know as min jiam kueh, or peanut pancake) and roti babi (deep-fried minced pork sandwiches). Give yourself a couple of hours here because you will find that just about every stall in this al fresco food haven has its own irresistible draw. — TODAY
